God I wish a 3rd party would make some rim hydro calipers that would work with modern hydro brifters. I would have AXS on my lovey Bianchi like a shot.
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I saw that. It really works? What is it? Does it take skin off? Iāve been told so many crazy things to stop honking: Baking in an oven, baking on a grill, sandpaper, a fine file, a wire brush, acetone, isopropyl alcohol, denatured alcohol, tequila, cheap vodka; and Iām thinking: What? And to NOT buy new pads because the rotor that is contaminated will ruin the pads, but I can get them back if I: bake them, grill them, soak in iso, etcā¦
But there are so manyā¦ 
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Yupā¦it really works. Not always a permanent solution, but another applicaiton resolves the issue again.
It is a gritty paste that you embed in both the rotors and pads. Follow the instructions carefullyā¦there is a process to it. Donāt just coat the rotors and ride off!
I have developed a shorter process that seems to work equally well, but would recommend following the directions for your first time use. You basically coat the rotors and then apply / release the brakes a number of times under varying loads.
I have used it quite a few times and been very pleased with the results.
Isopropyl alcohol can help clean the rotors, but it will also depend on how bad the contamination isā¦definitely not a cure-all (but a cheap solution if it worksā¦so low-risk).
Never had much luck sanding the pads and also never tried the baking solutions, so 
You can thank me laterā¦ 
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$590 bucks? Um. Wowā¦ And only one brake too.
(Automotive) brake cleaner in a spray can to clean the rotor and pads with a paper towel has always worked well for me. And consider some sandpaper to resurface the pads. Be sure to re-bed the brakes afterwards. I have found organic pads tend to be much quieter in all circumstances vs sintered-metal pads, but organic pads donāt last nearly as long. Iāve had a lot less problems with brake contamination since I started waxing my chains, but thatās a whole other topic.
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I thought of using CRC electric contact cleaner. Itās ānastyā, leaves no residue, and will harden your liver if you snort it, but itās actually pretty expensive to be hosing down bike rotors. Killing the ozone to stop honking? Ehā¦
Hydraulic rim brakes have existed for >15 years, the best known manufacturer is probably Magura. My momās-now-wifeās-bike has them (Magura HS11, I think). Some rim brake and TT bikes came with hydraulic rim brakes. On my momās bike they were great: I think they have been bled at most once in >12 years of service.
Hydraulic rim brakes share some of the advantages of hydraulic disc brakes, e. g. they are self-adjusting and they provide more leverage, i. e. you can get the same braking action with less lever force.
On mountain bikes they were quickly overtaken by hydraulic disc brakes. On road bikes I reckon they combined some of the reasons/superstition/skepticism that traditional roadies had when it came to hydraulic disc brakes (ādifficult to set up and maintainā, etc.) but did not provide as good braking action as hydraulic disc brakes.
I had no idea they existed. I did see the delta caliper ripoff from a Chinese manufacturer, but havenāt seen hydraulic rim calipers, ever. Hmm. Interestingā¦
I did run into a cabled hydraulic caliper and thought it a really odd duck. Apparently they are popular with bike-packers, and have run into cabled disc calipers which were surprisingly effective, but susceptible to cable stretch and improper cable maintenance. I wonder, still, why Shimano has refused to make a hydraulic rim brakeset. It would seem that it would sell, and for certain types of biking, they would be a marked improvement over existing cable brakes. (shrug) They do what they think is right for whatever misguided reasons they haveā¦
No, Magura hydraulic rim brakes are NOT self-adjusting. They are a closed system without a reservoir.
All HS models include an adjuster for compensation. External dial by the lever on the new stuff, a hex key on older stuff (ancient HS11 and such).
This is necessary not only for pad wear but also for temperature compensation since the fluid and lines change with heat and impact lever throw and pad contact.
Iāve used Maggies since the mid 90ās on all my trials bikes and know many HS models well. Great brakes with incredible power and lever feel for trials. They are still the most common option (including trials specific clones) for our funky sport and will likely remain that way forever.
AFAIK, Mag only made that one road style brake and it was very short lived. All other models are cantilever post mount and donāt suit a regular road bike since they donāt offer a drop style lever.
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I stand corrected.
Yes, I can attest to that. Saved my momās bacon when a car backed out of a driveway without looking.
Rotor was using them on their Uno groupset, I think. And I have seen them on rare/weird TT bikes where mechanically actuated brakes would have been less effective as the brake hose had to take quite a windy road from brake lever to brake calipers.
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Once we agree on road tire width and get our carbon technology sufficiently advanced, rim brakes will be back. And hopefully hydraulic.
Of course they need to get all of us on disc brakes first but that is happening fast.
Joe
Sounds like an evil plot. Oh, and:
