That’s not something to hope and wish for. You best contact your dealer and get a direct answer via Trek.
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Ok so in the 2020 model. 700 SLR vs 500 SL carbon weight difference between the frames was about 300 grams I think.
If so is the new weight difference between the SL 500 SL carbon and the 2021 SLR 800 carbon closer to 700 grams? New SLR model stated to be 400 grams lighter.
That’s dependent on the components. New frame is said to be 80 grams lighter than the 700 carbon frame.
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The 2020 SL frame and fork is 1.84kg or 4.06lbs
The 2021 SL frame and fork is 1.91kg or 4.2lbs
The 2020 SLR frame and fork is 1.34kg or 2.96lbs
The 2021 SLR frame and fork is 1.56kg or 3.45lbs
All disc brakes…and for some confusing reason I pulled Emonda weights. Sorry about that
It’s not so clear which comments refer to which frame. For clarity, the 2021 Emonda SLR is heavier (220 grams in a 56) than the 2020 model, but the frame has changed and is a lot more aero. The 2021 Madone SLR is marginally lighter (30 grams in a 56) due to 800 OCLV, but is the same frame shape.
You can just look at the frame sets and scroll down for their weights on Trek’s website.
The 2020 Madone SL frame weighs 2.12kg
The 2021 Madone SLR frame weighs 1.97kg
So the difference is 150g
Not sure if the different bottom brackets are included in those weights.
There are likely more weight savings in the cockpit etc. but as far as the frames go that should be it. That’s also for a 56 but I doubt it would be much different for other sizes.
I like the SLR7 in “carbon smoke/crimson” but when you try to customize in Project One the paint scheme isn’t there. 
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Recommendation, do I get an SL6 or SL7 eTap? Bikes weight about the same but the SL7 is $2,200 more. Both of these are in stock at my LBS. Or, order an SLR7 with threaded BB? I’d get the lighter carbon but another $1,000 over the SL7. Might take 2 months to get an SLR7. I don’t ‘need’ a bike right away, plus winter is coming and I have a fat bike 
I prefer eTap over Di2 so of those I’d get the SL7 eTap. Only negative I see in the Force eTap is 48/35 is the largest Force chainring available, too small for me. If you don’t have a preference on Shimano vs SRAM then I’d get the SLR7. SLR due to the possibly better BB and the lighter & stiffer frame.
Ideally I’d say hold out for a SLR7 eTap if another $1000 is available.
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48 chainring with a 10 tooth cog on the AXS cassette is a higher gear than a 52-11 and it’s basically the same as a 53-11 (only .5 gear inch lower).
I’m not questioning whether a 48-10 is too low of a gear for you personally, but just want to clarify for others that it’s essentially the same as running a “standard” setup and provides a higher top gear than a mid compact or compact. People see those small chainrings and assume it’s lower, but it’s not. I’m a big fan of the AXS road gearing. I’ve got 46/33 chainrings that are a really good all around setup and I’ve got the 48/35 rings that basically go unused, but may make it on the bike for some races where there might be some fast downwind sections. Very few situations that matter where anyone under 5+ w/KG is is going to spin out a 46/33 w 10 tooth cog in the rear. I wouldn’t run it for a flat TT, but I can’t think of another situation where it’s going to be a meaningful limiter.
I really like the AXS 12 speed road gearing. Nice tight gear spacing and really good range. I prefer the shifting performance of di2, but SRAM works really well also and the gearing options are better with the extra gear. SLR7 e-tap would be my vote if it’s not breaking the bank.
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I have a 53/39 and 11-32 now. A move to 50/37 and 10-33 would be an improvement and something I’m really considering although it’s a lot of money to switch to AXS. I spin out, or come really close to it, on a good number of descents where I live making most of my intervals hard to complete correctly. Not just z5 and z6 intervals but z2-z4 in some areas are hard to stay in. I live in an area with a lot of rolling hills, nearly impossible to work around useless I repeat a stretch of road a lot which would take away what I view as part of the fun in cycling. If I lived in FL I’d be fine with the 48/35 like you mentioned, perhaps even the 46/33 
Good point on the gearing. I live in an area with lots of hills and rolling hills. A 40 mile ride on Sunday was 4300 feet on my Jamis Renegade (some dirt roads and 10 minutes of gnarly doubletrack mixed in). Does Trek make a 52/36 with 10/33 cassette? With the Madone’s gearing, I would spin out on some decents.
Yeah, I guess it didn’t think about doing solo intervals on rolling hills. You could probably spin out any gear combo under that situation. I’d still say you would be better off with the 48/35 compared to your current combo since you get better climbing gears with the same top end, but AXS is an expensive switch.
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Quarq’s (SRAM) biggest chainring available to the public so far for AXS is 50/37 but it’s the Red level. I don’t think you can just swap Force and Red AXS chainrings due to 107 BCD (Force) vs direct mount (Red). If you got Shimano you could use 53/39 + 11-X but the gear ratio is actually worse (read as slower) than AXS 50/37 + 10-X in the terrains you and I ride in. I thought there were some guys in the Tour using larger chainrings, maybe they’ll be available to the public at some point.
In any case, unless you get a Project One bike you’ll be getting whatever is on the internet description of your potential bikes. Dealers I have been to are generous enough to give nice discounts on parts you want to change out but it’s not been free in my experience. Usually it’s at their cost.
I was running 53/36 and 11-34, not officially supported but worked great with Ultegra 8000 derailleurs.
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Good suggestion. It’s never really the climbs that I have issues with staying in the target zones, it’s almost always the downhills…like 99% of the time.
Definitely not something Trek would offer on their bikes since it’s not a standard available groupset.
10/33 is a 12 speed road cassette from SRAM and it’s only “officially” compatible with the SRAM AXS cranksets which limit the jumps between big and small rings to 13. With SRAM force, you can get 46/33 or 48/35. With Red, you also have the option of 50/37. The downside of Red is that the rings are built into the spider or power meter, so it’s a pretty expensive swap.
52/36 is an 11 speed crank and I’m not sure you can run it with a 12 speed chain. My guess is that it would work to some degree, but probably not shift that great and might have some chain take up challenges with the bigger gap between front rings vs. what SRAM Axs.