Likely the Xpedo M-Force 8… if you can find them.
The Shimano PD M424 (SPD with outer resin cage) appears to have the same spindle as the M520 so might be an option for those wanting something different. Yet to receive my Duo Shi’s so will test for pod/shoe clearance when they arrive.
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I disassembled my Exustar E-PM222 pedals. They appear to be very similar to the M-force 8’s from Expedo. Could someone give me some measurements from the Favero axle? The Exustar axle is 50mm long from the seal and 10mm in diameter at the seal.
Hey there!
Going to buy DUO-SHI and install PD-A600 bodies.
Is there any succsess story except Post #731?
Does anyone has any idea whether Duo-shi spindle compatible with DEORE XT M8100 pedal?
Thanks in advance.
Yes. Both 8000 and 8100. A Wild idea for Favero Assioma pedals [MTB SPD Hack] - #734 by sirk
First of all thanks for all the info in this post about this setup for the spd pedals.
How did you manage to match it? I have been triying to find a way to mount my m8000 on duo-shi and could not find it.
The axle is different and think do not match as easy nor the nut that fix the ball bearings, so bought the 520 that as stated in several post, is a bolt on and go.
I was reading through the thread and there seems to be some confusion on whether or not the Deore XT M8000 and M8100 series are compatible with the Duo-Shi spindles.
I have a pair of the XT M8020 and XT M8100 pedals and just purchased a set of used Duo-Shi spindles. Both pedal bodies thread onto the Favero spindles and can be tightened. Like @chupster98 noticed, there is a bit of a gap between the pedal body and the flat for the wrench. I’m not sure if I should be concerned about this yet. I’ll keep and eye on this to see if there are any issues with the pedal body loosening or water/dirt ingress.
The “Q factor” of the XT M8100 pedal body + Duo-Shi setup seems to be the expected +10mm increase to 65mm.
Here is a comparison of the XT and Duo-Shi spindles
And for fun, I tried out an old set of Saint MX80 flat pedals. The pedal bodies thread on but there is some interference between the pedal body and the spindle but it seems like this could be fixed by trimming a few mm from the pedal body. I bought my Duo-Shi spindles for $350 so this would certainly could be a cheaper option than the SRM flats.
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Is that both sided for the spindles?
That’s a great price, you did well.
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how’s this pedal combi fairing?
I wanted to update this thread with my experience.
I have been running a set of the UNO with M-Force 8 bodies. These pedals have been used on my XC bike, Fat bike, and for gravel racing.
I used them for over a year now and pedal strike probably every other ride when mountain biking (ironically its always the non-drive side crank arm), using a Next SL crank the pod sits about the same height as the crank arm and although I see some scratches on the pedal and crank nothing has stopped working and they have not broken. I have used them on what I classify as All-Mountain trails also. I would 100% recommend these as a pedal setup, it would really take a gnarly hit to break them or a perfect angle of the hit to break them.
Besides that, they are regularly used in 0-10* weather for fat bike season and have seen plenty of water/stream crossing and some very sandy races. I was going to use them for CX but unfortunately I was not able to ride cross this year. Keep in mind even if you “crack” the exterior body that the pedals are a Bicomponent Filling Resin which means they are absolutely waterproof still.
For the price, weight and size, great product.
I hope this helps anyone wondering about the durability
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I just installed the Assioma DUO-Shi spindles on my Shimano ES-600 pedal bodies. The spindles are identical to the spindles on the listed Shimano-compatible road pedals (shout out to one of my regular ride buddies for spotting this) and the install was flawless. I attached them to Cannondale ONE 172.5mm cranks and then did the manual calibration with my Wahoo ELMNT Bolt 2 computer, which recognised them and added POWER to the primary display.
My first ride with them will be tomorrow (I tested them with some Shimano MTB shoes I’ve had for years and they work perfectly without cosmetic surgery), but I’m seeking input on how to test their accuracy. From reading this thread my understanding is that the best way is using a turbo trainer. I have a ZwiftHub with native power measurement, so is the trick to record a ride with native power, then add the Assiomas as a power device to the ZwiftHub and record a second ride with them?
Discovering this thread was a godsend as I’m training for some endurance rides (>1000 km) and want to wear MTB shoes for the inevitable hike-a-bike sections. I also wanted to be able to use the same pedals on my gravel bike for those rides, rather than invest in a second set.
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Honestly, I’d just assume they are accurate unless you get some massively weird numbers. As 1,000 threads on this forum will attest, no two power meters will give the exact same numbers anyway so you won’t know which ones are “accurate” anyway. Plus, the Assioma pedals just work. As in, they are one of the least likely power sources to be “not accurate” unless you screwed up the install or part of your shoe is rubbing on the pod.
Edit: I’ve got two pairs of Assiomas and a smart trainer. I’ve never done an official compare and contrast, but all three sets of power meters give readings that seem the same on similar effort levels.
Btw, having the power meter on the bike for long events is both awesome and terrible. It’s great for keeping your effort lower early in the event, but it’s depressing seeing that you can’t even reach your FTP later in the event.
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Thanks very much for adding some needed perspective. I don’t have any experience using power meters so I wasn’t quite sure what to expect. But I have to say the actual setup process was quite easy and that was reassuring.
My first endurance event will be the 2023 TransPyrenees Race in June, and I’m working with a coach on preparation. He was adamant about me getting a power meter precisely for the first scenario you mentioned - i.e., to resist the temptation to go out too fast. I’m under no illusions about my competitiveness but I would like to finish within the 5 days. And the decision to go with MTB pedals is my way of acknowledging that I’ll be doing some walking on some of the cols on the route.
Last thing: I’m quite pleased with the ES-600 pedals. They’re not as light as “pure” MTB pedals but their road shape looks nice on my Cannondale Synapse and probably contributes a bit to the clearance between my shoes and the power pod.
Thanks again! I’ll report back after my rides this weekend.
UPDATE: After figuring out that I had to actually register the power meters with Favero to activate them, using the mobile app, I have been able to put them to the test. I can happily report that they work brilliantly and I am thoroughly enjoying being fully em-power-metered. It is taking me a bit of time to get used to the one-sided ES-600 pedals, because I’m used to 2-sided MTB pedals and the motion for clipping in to my one-sided road pedals is different, but pretty sure it will become easier with time. So, to reiterate, there is no “hack” required to install the Assioma Duo-Shi spindles in the Shimano ES-600 pedals. They just screw right in without a fuss.
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Curious to know whether this is still working fine in combination with XT-M8100 pedals 
?
The pedals still seem to be working well but I haven’t been able to put many miles on them to properly test out durability. I tested the pedals against a power2max NGeco on another bike and the data lines up quite nicely from visual inspection. I’m finding that I actually like the increase stance width from the longer spindles on road/gravel cranks since I mainly MTB and I’m used to cranks with ~173mm q-factor.
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The Assioma-Shi? Yes it’s perfectly fine with XT’s.
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Your titanium locknuts look great! Would the Duo-Shi spindles fit with all stock PD-M9100 parts? I have both sets of pedals and have been considering trying this out.
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Just wanted to add my experience doing the Bontrager comp SPD pedal conversion.
I already have Favero pedals and getting into gravel and wanted power on the bike. And I didn’t want to go with a crank arm meter, I like the flexibility of pedals. So decided to give the conversion a go, for just the cost of the pedals.
Went very smooth. Only minor issues were ensuring I had a 9mm socket that fit (1 of the 2 I have worked), and trying to figure out which way to loosen the nut (I remembered one side turns opposite, but couldn’t remember which). Turns out the left pedal is standard.
Otherwise, super simple and quick. Did a power test with the pedal with the normal body before the changeover, and then after the SPD pedal was installed, and it was within a few watts.
Weight difference was about 25 grams for the left pedal (15 for the right non power pedals).
I’ll have to wait to get it outside until riding season here, but the changeover so far seems smooth and easy.
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So I attempted to do this pedal hack with some new Xpedo CXRs today, and had real problems getting the end caps (dust caps) off to even start the hack. I have got one cap off, but rounded the thread on the other. Assuming I can get this rounded cap off with destructive methods, please could you confirm:
Are the end caps ‘normal’ threaded (lefty loosey) on both pedals?
Are there any easily available end caps anyone can suggest that will work with the CXRs for this hack? It is a lot of cash to get some Xpedo end caps shipped to the UK and I assume I can’t just use the assioma ones.
Thanks!