Chain Waxing Tutorial

Quoting myself here, I’d appreciate some feedback to calibrate my expectations. Chain still seems too dirty to me - had degreased chain and cleaned drivetrain again (mineral spirits, denatured alcohol).

Is that a typical result for the drip-on Super Secret/True Tungsten type lube? Would hot melt wax make any difference, or is it likely to be an issue with my drivetrain preparation?

After ~200km of dry road riding, running chain through my hand or towel (with some pressure, admittedly):


Boiling water bath products gunk:

Super-Secret-immersed chain, not ridden yet: Spotless.

Did you start with a new chain? If not, it’s quite difficult to get it to the clean state that a new chain can achieve. When you cleaned it in mineral spirits, I assume you had the chain off the bike, did you do successive baths in progressively cleaner spirits? Did you do a final bath in alcohol and did that final alcohol bath remain clear?

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Originally it was a brand new chain, yes, 3 spirits + 2 alcohol baths, clear.

After first ride, seemed too dirty, so I repeated the whole procedure. After another 200k I took the above photos. Result identical both times, I just didn’t take pictures after the initial ride.

The second result is what I am used to with immersion waxing IME. It’s always clean to the touch, even after riding. I might get a little bit of waxy residue on my hand if I have to touch my chain but it brushes right off.

Part of the reason I started immersion waxing was so when my kids touched my bike (as they inevitably do) it’s not automatic bath time.

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I’m using drip-on Ceramic Speed UFO. After applying I try and wipe the excess wax off this part:

Then wipe the chain after every ride. That keeps it clean.

@Jack_Russell_Racing especially thanks for the Gulf Wax pic posted up the string!

I am going to definitely consider it. Although you are right it’s probably all I need as I am not fast, but if I end up going to the 2 pot method - it would make a ton of sense to me for this to be in pot 1. It’s so cheap Pot 2 never needs to become pot 1. Could simply throw them both out when due.

BTW - did you all hear on one of the more recent podcasts @Jonathan has completely backpedaled on waxing . . . interesting.

I’m similar, in that waxing isn’t all its cracked up to be. My take as follows.

  • Winner is wax: keeps the chain clean. No black chain oil marks on hands, clothes, car surfaces, etc.

  • Winner is drip wax: quick and easy to apply. I brush the chain free of any accumulated dust and wipe with a rag. Then apply drip wax. Takes minutes.

  • Winner is wax: easy to clean the bikes. Makes cleaning bikes a single step process with water for everything, vs a 2-step process when using oil based lubes - 1 step to clean the drivetrain, another step to clean the bike.

  • Winner is oil: lasts longer. IME, wax lube does not last long when riding at high chain angles - meaning chain in big cassette cog. The sliding motion of the plates on the pins scrapes the wax away from where it needs to be and the chain gets noisy. I’ve noticed this on MTB and gravel bikes. I live in Colorado, so I spend a lot of time riding hills. When I shift into middle cassette, the chain quietness down. This cause is speculation on my part - but the results are clear, wax does not last long, especially on my MTB Eagle drivetrain if I spend a lot of time in 42 and 50 cogs.
    Example: I’ve ridden Leadville 2x with oil based lubes, and did not need to relube mid ride. Last year I rode Aspen 50 on a freshly waxed chain and needed to relube mid ride.

  • Tie: drivetrain longevity. I keep my chains clean whether using wax or oil, and I think a dirty contaminated chain is the biggest driver of chain and drivetrain wear. Since I am diligent about keeping a clean drivetrain, I haven’t noticed a difference.

  • No opinion: watts saved. I can’t measure this.

All in, I’ve switched to Squirt drip lube, as immersive wax is too time consuming given how frequently I’d need to do it (1-2x per week).

I relube after every ride, and apply the Squirt liberally. Sometimes on a long ride, I relube mid ride with Squirt.

Silca drip lube is too thin a consistency, and does not last as long as an application of Squirt. Although with a brand new chain, I’d probably use Silca for the first few weeks, as it penetrates the pins/links better than Squirt.

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@DaveWh nice review! I have to admit out of all reasons, my main reason is probably keeping things clean. I am a chronic over-luber

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Am I reading this correctly that you base your experience and summary on drip-waxing versus oil lubes, and not hot-waxing?

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Waxing newbie Q - Why would a waxed chain be getting black? It’s not oily like a lubed chain, but it’s kind of black and gunky… not just dust. I started with a pre-waxed chain and a completely clean drivetrain (removed cassette and cleaned cog by cog along with pulley/jockey wheels and chainrings). Should I just rinse with boiling water and wax or something else?

That’s what it does. Drop it back in the wax!

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I think DaveWh was comparing 1 immersion waxing (IE Gulf Wax, MSW) 2 drip wax (IE Squirt, Secret Lube) 3 drip oil (IE Rock and Roll Gold) and he was rating which is the best for different criteria

I didn’t particularity like Squirt

I don’t generally ride in the wet or mud - immersion waxing is my 100% go to - I don’t see ever going back. However if you ride in an environment that is frequently wet/muddy/sandy I can totally see where wax isn’t the end all be all for everyone.

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I used hot melt waxing. Not worth the extra effort vs drip wax IME.

Completely this. I have 4 chains I rotate. I just like to do them in batches. I don’t keep track of mileage. I just put on a new chain at the end of the week.
The only thing I don’t like about waxing is cleaning up all the wax flakes by my trainer constantly.

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Regarding don’t overthink it…

My wife had a bunch of basic paraffin unscented taper candles from TJ Maxx that sat on a shelf for like 15 years and never got used.

I’ve been waxing for at least 3 years on that stash, 15000+ miles and haven’t even thought about replacing a chain or cassette. Can’t even measure any stretch wear among my 3 chains I rotate.

I did the initial clean thoroughly - but I don’t bother for rewax. Just drop it in, swirl a few times, give it a couple mins and pull it out. After maybe 15-20 chain dips, if it’s not as white when dry, chuck the wax and get another candle. A little grit and sand will settle to the bottom of the pot that I wipe out.

I’m finally running out of candles and may actually have to buy some wax…

On the podcast, they really missed this #1 reason to wax. Your drivetrain becomes immortal. The studies looking at this are incredible. And that is worth huge time and $$$ in a scarce market. Clean to touch quiet chains and free watts are a nice bonus!

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I’ve been using tea lights from who knows where with some graphite and Teflon powder for the past 7+ years, maybe 20 bucks invested with a pot from good will, had a hot plate already. Threw a half dozen in before my last session a month ago.

I was contemplating trying the silca wax and a flooded basement 2 weeks ago might have forced my hand, not sure I want to try and plug the hot plate in.

what do you bathe your parts in? i assume for wax, you’d just use hot water. similarly to just boiling on the stove.

I saw this unfortunate news over at the WW forum. Steven John Leffanue (Oz Cycle YT Channel) has posted several videos about waxing on YT I’m sure many of us have watched or used as a basis to get into waxing.

WHAT
Oz Cycle did this??
I am shocked beyond belief