A bit of a random question, will you be hanging your bike with the new wheels on the wall mount you see on your wall? I have the same one and was wondering if it could possibly damage the wheel vs something like a Steadyrack mount.
No problem hanging them like that. You wouldn’t want to ride them if something like that would damage them.
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Won’t be an issue. Ditto what Dwayne said ^.
I usually leave it standing in the stand you see photographed, but have no quarrels hanging it by the wheel (whether with the Hyper hoops, or the stock wheels). I will however, be moving to a new home soon, and will likely change the vertical mount to a horizontal ‘pedal type’ hook mount purely for aesthetic reasons. Fortunately the other CAAD you see on the wall is my SO’s, so I’ve spun it as ‘art’ (small win for 2020).
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New question: What are the pros/cons of wheel depths for, say, 35mm vs 45mm vs 55mm vs 65mm (other than weight, obviously)?
I’m particularly interested in the 25mm wide Light Bicycle Falcon wheels. These are within my budget and should fit on my older road bike. I’m primarily into centuries and fondos without too much climbing and was leaning toward the 55mm depth for a good set of all around wheels.
I have an older Vittoria Tactic on the front (~25mm deep, ~1900g) and Velocity A23 on the rear (19.5mm deep, website says 840g but that seems way too light), so just about any deep section carbon wheel will be an upgrade. Thanks in advance!
Generally I think the differences in depth are that deeper are heavier, could be harder to handle in crosswinds, are stiffer, and more aero. There may be some others but I think those are the major differences.
It sounds like the weight for the Vittoria is a wheelset weight while the Velocity weight is for that single wheel.
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Ahh, that makes sense - good call! Any of these will still be an upgrade for sure!
Coming from 19mm deep aluminum clinchers, any of those will be a massive step up. Depending on how/where you ride, for most people who tackle any amount of hilly terrain, or windy conditions, I’d say that 45mm is the sweet spot. Deeper definitely has is advantages(especially at 20mph+), but the returns begin to diminish as far as depth vs aero benefit, and with that, the weight and the handling in wind begins to factor in more and more. With all that said, if you’re a bigger rider, say over 180lbs, the jump up to 55mm won’t blow you around as much as a 150lb rider…
Thanks. I’m 5’ 11” and 165 lbs. so maybe the 45s are a better choice.
You know what people never say? ‘I wish I wasn’t so aero’. Go big.
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But people (me) have said "I wish I didn’t have an 80mm front on when its a 23mph cross wind 
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Ok… a few things…
- Those wheels are wider than 25mm. They are 27.3mm wide at the widest point. This shouldn’t be an issue though. If you’re on a bike designed for 25c tires max, LB has a chart - What Size Road Bike Tires Should I Use?
- Depth… more important than the depth is the shape and that you’re using the right tire for the width of the wheel. These are made for 25mm (measured) tops. After that, the shape is important (old V shaped rims and deep AL rims are the worst). Finally depth. Static winds generally arent an issue, just turbulent winds will move you.
I have a set of their AR 46mm deep wheels and they move around A LOT LESS than my DT Swiss 32mm deep AL rims - those weren’t too bad. Rider weight doesn’t matter at all, but the amount of wind YOU catch might. Zipp 303 are 45mm and considered a windy day wheel; 404 are bread-and-butter at 58mm.
And those people got dropped. 
Awesome, thanks!
Finally pulled the trigger and ordered WR65 with DT Swiss 350 Hub (24H/28H combo), Sapim CX-Ray and brass nipples. Also asked for the satin finish and got them without holes so I can easily run 28mm GP 5000TL.
The wide = fast and stable was the resounding conclusion after looking through the web. Josh Poertner (guy of the 105 rule) kept mentioning on videos and podcasts that 28mm and even 30mm for the average rider are perfect and the 32mm wide rim of the WR65 fits that perfectly.
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@mathieurrr, I assume you’re talking about Light Bicycle’s WR65 Falcon Pros? Please let us know how you like them. A couple of questions, if you don’t mind (so I can learn).
- Why did you select the 350 hub over the 240/240EXP?
- Why did you go with the brass nipples instead of the aluminum?
- Please let us know how you like the satin finish (I’m leaning toward matte).
- What weave did you choose (12K, 3K, or UD)?
- What decal did you select?
If you could post pics once you receive them that would also be great. Thanks in advance!!
Happy to share all the details that I can and will certainly post some pictures when they do come in.
I actually got the Falcon (non-pro) but you can always email them and ask them for a Satin finish. Instead of building them up with the website tool I asked them directly for a quote of exactly what I wanted. I priced out the DT 350 hub and Hope RS4 hub. Prices for my version of those builds were $943 and $1059 USD. That includes 3% off on the rim and spokes for sharing a post on FB. I wanted the bling of the orange Hope RS4 but decided to stick with tried and true DT Swiss and save the $.
I went with the DT Swiss 350 over 240 for pure value purposes. I’m not much of a weight weenie as I certainly have my own weight to shed first (I’m 5’9 180lbs) and so I didn’t care about paying for a lighter hub. I had heard that brass nipples where much stronger and I remember Peak Torque (a Youtuber) saying he would always go with brass.
I went with UD weave because I like the look of it the most and the “stealth” aka grey decal.
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I would highly recommend farsports.
I’m currently on the kaze 55mm tubeless, with dt350 36t hubs, and sapim cx-ray spokes and love them so far.
They sit perfectly flush with a 25mm gp 5000 tubeless.
I’ve only got about 300 outside miles on them but they feel great so far!
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Thanks, I’ll take a look.
Thanks for sharing. I’m looking at a very similar set of options (non-pro, UD, etc) and the info on the brass nipples really helps! Now I just have to convince the real boss. Thanks again!!
Describes my decision-making for my wheels exactly, too, also went with brass nipples for strength, 350 hubs since I weigh 77-79kg and don’t count grams, and rim bed without holes so make it super simple to run tubeless (no problems so far).