To stop disc brakes from rubbing on a bicycle, you can follow these steps:
Check the rotor for any signs of damage or warping.
Loosen the caliper mounting bolts.
Squeeze the brake lever to center the caliper, then retighten the bolts evenly.
Check for even pad-to-rotor spacing.
Repeat adjustments if necessary, ensuring proper clearance and alignment.
You can also look through the info here https://www.bikertricks.com/disc-brakes-rubbing/ I’m sure you will find some useful tips there.
But if you tried several ways and severe rubbing persists, it’s better to consult a bicycle mechanic for further assistance.
You likely need to push the brake pads and pistons back….there is a specific tool for this but you can also just use an old chisel or large, flathead screwdriver.
Insert the flat end in between the pads and then angle the tool back and forth to get the pads / pistons to retract.
Once done, squeeze the brake levers to reset the pads to the correct position.
So rim or disc brakes? I have been TTing for 6-7 years using rim brakes. I come from a Tri background and look at Tri bikes because they are better at carrying fuel. Whether TT or Tri, the rim brake versions of frames, parts and wheels are far cheaper and plenty available, new and second hand. I have never considered disc brakes. Except…
…A few weeks ago I did the National 24hrs time trial and it was torrential rain - apparently the worst weather for 30 years of that event. It rained from around 3pm on day one to 5am on day 2, with really really heavy rain in parts of the night. My rim brakes were taking 20yards to have an effect on the twisting country (B and C road circuit) the first evening: that was the very first time I ever considered disc brakes as sensible or necessary. Somewhat extreme circumstances.
Three weeks later I did the national 12 hrs, on the same circuits, and it again just light rain for a short while this time on straight roads. Not an issue. Rim brakes were perfectly adequate.
My mate, an Ironman Kona triathlete has just changed to disc brakes so he can descend Kona and Nice hills much faster and brake later. Marginal gains.
Personally, the jump to a disc brake bike and having to change two sets of wheels (Training & Racing or windy and calmer) is a big jump in costs. Good wheels make a difference and are having an effect all the time. Brakes only when braking.
I think there is much more advantage for normal conditions (and having the sense not choosing to race on very steep descents or in heavy rain) in getting an upgraded cockpit that allows alteration to your position to get more aero.
So I have recently changed my frame for a different rim brake frame. (Used from a club mate). There are plenty of good used rim brake TT and tri bikes out there. I did look at a 105 Cervelo P-series on ebay but the front end looked pretty cheap and non-aero (Cables, standard stem). I would prefer a tidy front end over the supposed advantages of disc brakes. Maybe in a few years I might change, but for now the cost of changing wheels far outweights the advantagaes.