Yep, I find the best segments are steady 6% or so climbs with good pavement to estimate w/kg among people to get a sanity check. You need to know a few folks approx weight though, and they also had to have used a power meter obviously. If you are able to get this info, it will get you close to knowing if your data is junk or not.
Do @RONDAL suggestion and you’ll know pretty quick if the numbers are right or wrong.
My FTP now is about 300, I did 3x10 last week with the legs pretty tired from a group ride, and it was very, very hard to push 295w. With good legs should feel doable, but hard.
362W for 20 min is awesome man!!! Keep it up
Installing sauce browser plugin will get other people’s weight (if they entered it and keep it updated)
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Whoa, that’s another level of strava sleuthing!
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As well as FTP, & W’bal on rides.
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This is a great idea. It would be a good idea to do this for the ramp test.
What Kinetic trainer do you have and what issues are you having putting the bike on it? I’m sure we can figure this out together!
Also a great question.
This raises a good point- it would be worth running through some troubleshooting steps before doing the test. Here are my suggestions:
- Calibrate the power meter in the TrainerRoad app. This article explains how to do this: How to Calibrate your Power Meter.
- Check for firmware updates. Here’s how you can check for firmware updates for your 4iiii power meter:
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Rotate the pedals on your bike. This will make sure the power meter is awake and ready to pair.
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Next, open the 4iiii app on your phone. I’ve included download links below:
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4iiii - iOS
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4iiii - Android
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Select the menu (☰) button at the top-left of the screen, then select PRECISION Configuration.
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Select your power meter, then follow the setup process.
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If a firmware update is available, a notification should appear on-screen, at which point you can select ‘Upgrade’.
Let us know if you have questions those troubleshooting steps, or getting your bike on your Kinetic trainer!
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Highly unlikely this is accurate. Had you been training at your lower 200s ftp while actually having a 340w ftp, every workout would be laughable and your endurance paces would feel like you’re lying in a couch. Even the structure workouts would be too easy your wonder what is the point.
I have a single sided stages. If I get caught in some proper rain, it gets internally water logged. If I don’t leave the power meter battery door open and remove the battery for the night afterwards, I’ll get higher than normal power. I accidentally rode 375w for 15min after a huge 30/30 workout, which tipped me off, since 375w for 20min was about my all out pace at the time. Once I dry it out, everything goes back to normal. Your issue could be something along those lines. (I found luck with buying silicone o-ring grease to reduce the issue).
For a running analogy, this is like somebody who consistently runs 19-20min 5k, then one day shows up and drops a 16:30 to everyone’s amazement. That usually just doesn’t happen, so I’m happy for you if it’s not just an equipment issue, but I would cast some doubt on it.
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Just wanted to add one more thing!
Usually we recommend that athletes test on a set up that’s as close as possible to the setup they’ll be using during training.
Even though the power meter should technically have the same fidelity regardless of whether you are on your rollers vs the Kinetic, there can be small but significant differences in how the mechanics of the trainer could affect your ability to output the same power. Similar to how it’s typically “easier” to put out higher power outdoors because (among other things) the rolling inertia allows you to take take micro breaks during your pedal stroke.
Regardless, it’s a good forst step to test the accuracy of the power meter with another power source (Kinetic trainer, if you can).
You can then think about the devices you’ll be using to train going forward, and decide whether your FTP is reflective of your capabilities with those specific devices.
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If your FTP is 4.2 - 4.3 W/kg, then you should be able to hold, for FTP duration:
-almost 8mph up a 10% grade
-about 9mph up an 8% grade
-about 10mph up a 7% grade
-about 11mph up a 6% grade
These are ballparks, but will tell you if your power meter is reading correctly. If you don’t have a slope that goes very long, it should feel like a solid effort but still comfortable after 10min.
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Hi
Most of the important stuff has been said - many congratulations for your improvement.
I have 3 different bikes with power meters plus a tacx neo 2T. The are all slightly different. I have different numbers inside and out. Inside I use TR and use either a ramp test or a more formal 20 min test.
I have always had better numbers outside by about +10. Usually because a steady climb outside over estimates ftp and makes inside training too hard. Ai also gives my ftp too high cause it goes on the mixture of inside and outside rides.
90% of best outside 20 min power seems good compromise. It’s quite ok to have different numbers inside and out. TR is adaptable. Just make sure that your chosen ftp number allows you to complete (just) your TR workouts. Tr derived ftp is best for TR if you have the right set up.
Good luck and we’ll done!
Agreed, fwiw, when my power meter battery is on its last legs, my power numbers are way higher than reality.
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My understanding is that “calibrating” a power meeting isn’t actually calibrating, but “zeroing” it so that zero is zero, instead of e.g. 10 or -15 watts.
I had a single sided left power meter for years then got dual assioma pedals and found out I have a Left/Right balance of 60/40%. So reading with a single sided only can greatly inflate or deflate your real total power. It is very easy for me to do high power numbers with the left side meter vs assioma and quarq real reading are much lower.
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Great point! Sometimes some wonky numbers are solved by simply changing the battery 
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