I wouldn’t recommend Rally XC if you ride a lot of gnarly terrain. I broke 2 pedals - given the ‘XC’ I do is most natural trails with some very tech climbing. Rock strikes may happen the odd time.
Furthermore, The PM was never consistent compared to even my smart trainer or my infocrank. It seems there can be a drift in the reading. Even if this can be collaborated mid-ride its enough for me not to trust it.
Finally, I had drop out issues but went away after garmin sent me a door battery door - this was when the pedals were fairly new and I always torque to spec.
For a ‘premium’ option PM - I’d just expect better. I’d go for a Segeyi or a crank based PM if you are intending to ride a lot of technical terrain or even borderline trail/enduro riding. But given how easily I broke 2 pedals - I’d imagine anyone MTBing would make a mistake within the next few years (especially considering it may be out of warranty by then) - and you’ll have to fork out 100+ euro for a new body yourself.
On a positive note - Garmin replaced both the pedals free of charge which is great.
For gravel riding / CX and tame XC its probably adequete.
I’ve had a pair of XC200s for a couple of years and love them. I’ve never experienced any dropouts. While they mostly stay on one bike, I occasionally put them on another bike and it’s easy peasy to do. I tested them against my Tacx Neo 2T using @dcrainmaker’s power analyzer tool and the XC200s read about 4-8 watts lower than my 2T. All in all, I’d buy them again in a second.
Some users of Garmin Vector pedals had power dropouts, but this issue was fixed a long time ago when Garmin released the updated battery caps. I suppose the Rally SPD upgrade bodies come with the new caps, so the reason for your dropouts is something else.
I have used single CR1/3N batteries, lubed lightly with SuperLube grease and have not noticed any dropouts.
I’m glad I read this. I do ride a lot of gnarly terrain on the MTB. I was looking for an easy solution for the two bikes I ride but the Rally’s may not be my answer. Dang.
Has anyone noticed that the Garmin cleats are slightly different than standard Shimano SH51 cleats.
I was riding my Rally XC pedals with a different pair of shoes that have the standard SH51 cleats and I almost died when my feet came unclipped over a jump. I feel like the Shimano SH51 cleats unclip with less inner rotation than the Garmin They look identical but I feel like the Garmin cleats have more float before unclipping?
I had the same impression this summer. They felt harder or different to unclip first, however that feeling went away after some hours with them. Not sure if I got used to it or if the pedals broke in.
Sorry to revive this, but just received a warranty replacement for my Garmin XC200s. I have the Favero road pedals and they ‘just work’. I’ve never had to think about them. The Rallys, however, seem wildly different after every install/calibration, even with this new pair. I don’t trust them at all. Battery doors torqued correctly, pedals torqued correctly, etc. So many people seem to have issues.
Today I split my ride in half and calibrated between. My L/R imbalance on the second half was perfectly 50/50, which is impossible. On the first half, it was 45/55, which is opposite my natural imbalance. Power phase is also completely different between the two rides. Chatted with support and they said they’d ‘raise it to engineering’, but that won’t do anything. They also said my cadence isn’t “smooth enough” which is ridiculous. They’re off road pedals.
Is there a trick to it? I’ve followed all of the instructions.
I regret it i wish i got 2 power meter cranks
On my second set of rallies and im sure ill write the second se off too.
When im racing xc have some pedal strikes mostly due to me being in the death zone and still pushing on.
Could most likely get 2 sets of crank based pm for the price of xc200 had xc100 and going from single to dual sided dont reallly see much benefits.
I have ridden these pedals for a few seasons. The power reading is very close to my Neo2. The only issue I have had with the pedals is that they can get very tight and difficult to unclip when riding in wet or muddy conditions.
Same. My power is very close to my Kickr and quarq and very consistent. As you said though, when wet or muddy are very hard to unclip even in the loosest setting.
I’ve had mine for three years, first on a gravel bike and last two seasons on an xc bike. I am in the sea to sky corridor where the trails are technical and very rocky, and I have had some big rock strikes. Pedals keep on ticking and I’m very happy with them!
I find they read about 5% lower than the 4iii they replaced, which was also close with a stages. I tend to think the garmin are accurate and the other pms read high.
Many years ago, I bought a pair of Specialized SPD knockoff pedals, and they came with their own cleats. The pedals look so close to being real SPD pedals, but the cleats, even though they DO fit in the pedals, are kind of a bitch to get out of no matter the tension setting (clipping in was a little difficult too). And wouldn’t you know it, I can’t find those ‘official’ unofficial cleats to save my soul. I ended up tossing the pedals. Even Specialized ‘forgot’ that pedal set as no dealers had any record of it being a product, and could only offer the official Shimano cleats. Maybe I should have held onto them and tried to find a cycling museum to put them on display. They weren’t exactly cheap at the time either.
Regardless of what kind of pedal system you are using, that is a sign of bad jumping form more than anything else. One of the main reasons all my trail riding is done on flats.
What is not fine or maybe what is not expected is when the same pedals, with supposedly the same cleats/interface (both new) behave differently. I even swapped the cleats around shoes and the behavior was the same. As someone else posted, the Garmin cleats have different float/release action than the SH51 cleats. I was not expecting this at first but now that I am used to it, it’s fine.
Question for those with the Garmin XC Rally pedals. When calibrating the pedals I get different torque values depending if I calibrate through Garmin Connect (iPhone app) vs. edge head unit. Has anyone else noticed this? Why the different values? Does it even matter?
[Example… phone torque value through Garmin Connect
is 0.16 then imidately calibrate through the head unit without touching anything and is -0.08.
They weren’t exactly cheap at the time either.