Thanks for posting that, chris.
FWIW I noticed this question sent to L Zinn re just this issue:
… from a guy experiencing some issues running GRX FD with road-like chainline crankset. Maybe it was a setup issue, contrary to what the fella though? Personally, I think I’d prefer to play it safe though and I’ll try to retain GRX FD and cranks, per the Shimano “advice”.
I moved my DZero from my 2014 Madone to my 2021 Checkpoint SL6.
I had read that the GRX front derailleur’s chain line is moved out 2.5 mm (to allow for wider tires), so the GRX double front derailleur is supposed to only work with the GRX double cranks.
Since earlier versions of the SL6 had Ultegra or 105 front derailleurs, I removed the GRX front derailleur and replaced it with an Ultegra FD-R8000 Front Derailleur, Braze-On.
I did this before the first ride. About 350 miles on it so far and no issues.
Sorry mate I’m a bit dumb at the understanding if all this.
I have a giant revolt on order that has GRX on it. I have purchased a power2max compact road power meter that uses the rotor aldhu crankset.
So will it work with the GRX front derailleur?
I’d shoot P2M support an email to make 100% sure for your application, they are typically very quick to respond. I ordered the PM they recommended and installed it last week and it works perfectly.
I think Theres another option - Carbon Praxis from the factory with 4iii installed. Front derailleur would fine fine but you’d need a new bottom bracket, which Praxis can advise as well.
If you already pulled the trigger let me know how it worked out - I have the same bike and want a PM too.
Do MTB riders not ride to power? Wouldn’t that be really helpful in cross country races?
Just trying to figure out why the manufacturers are lagging on the MTB Pedal / 2-sided SPD pedal power meters.
FWIW - I ride road mostly and a little gravel. Mostly, recreational group rides and fun rides with friends, but I still like double-sided SPDs and the more walkable MTB shoes.
I’d love a power meter on my mountain bike. But since it is my secondary bike, quite old and I got an ok from my wife to buy my dream bike in two months, I can’t justify the cost at the moment. But sure.
I reckon for XC it’ll be very helpful to pace your efforts.
I said similar in the IQ2 thread. It’s a massive oversight I think, my XT cranks are very similar to my 105 cranks so why is it mainly Stages marketing a replacment? Assinoma pedals can swap the body to use a different brands SPD body, why on earth doesn’t the two companies talk and come to a deal?
The first people to make an affordable SPD pedal will be laughing - SRM don’t count since their RRP was more than my 2nd hand mtb!
I ride SPD on road. I just prefer to walk with SPD shoes and find it funny to see people struggle to clip in their single sided pedals at traffic lights ;).
Whilst I would love to see affordable SPD power pedals (sorry SRM, not really affordable), I see why there is not a huge market there. As a MTB rider I would question if I need power. And if I want a power meter, I would put it somewhere with the least chance of damage (rather hub than pedal). The damage / warranty part is probably what stops companies from releasing SPD power pedals.
Thanks for this information. No tyre clearance issues?
I’m just wondering why Shimano doesn’t produce either a crank arm or pedal based power meter. I would think with tons of folks already using their pedals even a single sided upgrade would be attractive.
the 2.5mm chainline doesn’t affect the q-factor. They already did a 2.5mm when released 9100 and 8000 (rroad groupsets) to accomodate the wider rear on disc brake bikes. The q-factor remained constant at 147mm
I stand corrected.
Dave [Lawrence, Shimano USA]: “Our traditional road cranks have a Q-factor of 146mm, so the GRX line up will increase to 2.5mm on each side, bringing Q-factor to 151mm. However, we make a new XTR pedal that features a -3mm spindle on each side, so you could narrow the gap back to your road setup.”
I using the stock Bontrager Team Issue GR1s (40 mm) and haven’t had any clearance issues. It looks like a 45 mm tire would fit.
I appreciate the photos @alfman! This is exactly the set up I want to run when I get my Checkpoint ALR5. I’m assuming you’re running 50/34 front chainrings, and 11/34 cassette at the back. How have you found that gearing? Sorry to keep asking you questions!
Yep. 50/34 in the front and 11/34 in the rear. The gearing has been fine so far.
I’m really sorry because I’m an extremely poor mechanic, and still trying to figure all of this out, despite reading a ton of material on the subject (and I don’t have an available LBS where I live, they’re all swamped here in France)
Anyway, I have a GRX600 FD (810 at the back) and I’d love to have some fun with an entry level Power meter (I don’t compete, I just ride leisurely, but I’m a sucker for stats and data, and want to complement my TR training).
Since I like my SPD pedals for the offseason (that’s why I got a gravel in the first place), this rules out Vectors as my Power Meter source, so I figure my simplest option with my very limited capabilities (it took me 45 minutes the other day to figure out how to put my rear wheel back on. Trust me, I’m bad) would be a Stages left GRX power meter
Except they’re nowhere to be found in Europe
Here’s my question: if I understand correctly, I could put a 105 Stages PM and it would work just fine, but I’d have to add 2mm spacers for the Q factor ?
This doesn’t seem too difficult for me…
I believe so, yes (and I’ll be corrected otherwise 
)*. Or not bother with spacers if you don’t think you’d notice it, which there’s every chance you wouldn’t.
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*I’m running a 4iiii 105 LHS crank power meter with my GRX setup (see up-thread), and do have a couple washers in there - one for the crank and one for the pedal - to equalise the q-factor. 4iiii is a good alternative to Stages, so that’s another alternative you have if you’ve trouble sourcing stuff.
I did this for a bit while my GRX crank was out for the power meter install. I didn’t notice the Q factor difference and didn’t worry too much because it was temporary. If it was going to be a longer term set up, I would probably add spacers so I didn’t worry about it!
Good luck!!
