if you have an an sram derailleur check the max cassette size, there are 2 derailleurs, one that takes 33 and one up top 36 (so now I have a 10-36 cassette lying around which I can’t return and which doesn’t fit my bike…)
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There are some aftermarket cage options. Ratio and garbaruk are two off the top of my head. You can order a replacement longer cage and make yours work. Havent run either to recommend one but do have the ratio 12spd ratchet in my 11spd force shifters and love it. Been looking at a longer cage to run the 10-44 cassette.
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Yes, the OP gave us his weight, FTP, gearing and intended purpose. He is using the tallest “civilian” chainrings. And there is a limit as to the smallest and tallest gears he can have on a given bike. So what would you propose?
I think that depends on the generation of Red you are considering. The latest 2x Red groupset comes only in one cage length, I think. SRAM eliminated the 10–26 cassette apparently nobody bought and used. (If they had come to this conclusion 4 years ago, they would have saved me a bit of money, I had to replace the standard RD for the WIDE one. A few months later, they released XPLR 
(My road bike has a 1x drivetrain).
I’m laughing with one eye and crying with the other. God, I miss Japan! 
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That he calculate his target wattage, speed and max gearing he could fit, then train from time to time at the resulting cadence.
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Sram you could go 46/33 and 10/36 out of the standard road offerings. The previously mentioned mullet with 38 and 10-52 would get you one more granny gear, granted that one gear is a pretty big step so maybe it would be worth it.
I was grinding myself in the Appalachians earlier today on the gravel bike with road tires.
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Yeah, and given that the OP has a specific race in mind, I’d get the right gearing for this race. In case of doubt, I’d err on the side of having more climbing gears.
Since the race is soon, @Mehdi_Bennani should address this immediately. (I have had to wait 5 months for a SRAM replacement shifter!)
Thanks everyone. Looks like i should just continue with training, get the weight down, introduce low cadence work and close to race do those small changes on the bike to gain an extra gear or 2
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Did you see my comment about delivery times of bike gear? I would get appropriate gearing first hand. (I waited 4.5 months for my SRAM replacement shifters.)
Yep good point will buy and store
That is not a “rather low” cadence and is appropriate as efficient for the power you are putting out.
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Nice work with your training so far!
If your cadence naturally falls into a range of 75-85 rpm, that’s not necessarily a bad thing – nor is it a super low cadence (IMO).
60-65 rpm, however, definitely would be to me.
If you’re on a trainer using ERG mode, you could simply slow your cadence down and your trainer’s resistance should kick up to compensate. If you are not using ERG mode, you could shift into a harder gear, giving you more resistance to allow you to slow your cadence down.
That said, hours spent at ~60 rpm doesn’t sound pleasant, so I’d recommend what other athletes have said here and look into equipping easier gearing onto your bike for the event. 
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Being very realistic. My average cadence in solo rides on flats has been lately 69-72… so still in the low range. This is also my typical climbing preferred cadence.