Power 2 Max power meter feedback?

Same here. Just 1 though, road bike. So robust, never needs thinking about besides changing batteries. Only negatives are:

  • battery changing involves pulling the crankset off
  • no true left:right data, only a guesstimate of left:right ratio.

#firstworldproblems

Solid product. I have three units. One on gravel bike, another on road bike and a third on MTB.

True test of a PM is not having to ever think about itā€¦P2M passes this test without breaking a sweat.

Very pleased.

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Yes, thatā€™s a bummer. I get about 4000km out between battery changes. I have Rotor crank and the are OK to remove. Getting that pesky little O-ring back in place is the most annoying part. When i learned to mount the cover leaving a gap wide enough to let the O-ring slip in before fully tightening the screws that part of the process got a whole lot easier.

Iā€™m rather symmetrical so that is not really a issue for me. Angular resolution would have been nice thou.

No problems with my NGeco mounted to Cannondale SI cranks. Comparative previous hardware being a 2nd Gen Powertap and a Kickr.
As I understand it, the dual side software upgrade is not worth it as it is NOT true dual side but an approximation. Plenty of threads on that aspect.
So thumbs up from me.

Super late to this but whatever. I have 2 P2M type S with total ofā€¦ ~20,000 miles between them (including Zwift miles, so discount by 25% :smile:) and they have been absolutely rock solid. I have not had to remove the crankset to change the batteries on a 2016 Cervelo S3, 2015 Niner RLT or 2020 Domane, but I guess YMMV.

Off topic, but the video P2M has of them changing the battery shows them tighten the battery cap completely, then place the O-ring in the gap left between the cap and the power unit. That has worked well for me over the years.

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I have a NGeco on my MTB (mounted on SRAM Cranks). Iā€™ve had them for about a year now and have only had one errant power spike in that time. I was walking my bike and I had a ~3000W spike. But other than that Iā€™ve had zero issues, changed the battery maybe twice, ridden in mud, snow, rain, etc and have never had any issues with the rubber battery cover.

I see no reason why I wouldnā€™t get another one on a future bike unless there was some compatibility issue or whatever.

Me and manuals donā€™t go well togetherā€¦:stuck_out_tongue_winking_eye:

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Iā€™ve had my NGeco / Rotor ALdhu since last Dec and it just works. Battery life is fantastic and a 30 second job to replace with a new one. The on complaint Iā€™ve seen is the rubber battery cover design. Iā€™ve seen people say theyā€™ve lost the cover. You need to make sure the cover is fully engaged under each protruding prong.

Iā€™m going to get one for my new mountain bike if it ever gets here.

I have NGeCo on my titanium and it just works. Only issue is, if you use Smart trainer with TR, readings differ. P2max NGeCo reads slightly higher Ā±2%.

I have a first generation Power2Max Classic. Any reason to upgrade to the third generation NG Eco aside from bluetooth? The first generation provided L/R balance as a default ā€¦ not that I cared for it anyways. I reached out to P2M Germany and they didnā€™t give me any reason aside from bluetooth. Is the 3rd generation more accurate than the classic? The battery is easier to change but the first generation never gave me problems.

Thanks.