You will not be disappointed! Post how you Quarq compares to your trainer’s power.
Which NGEco do you purchase to install on Sram Eagle GX Boost Crankset?
When I purchased my power max for race face cinch they just gave me a boost spacer.
My bike is boost with SRAM X01 cranks. I bought a boost NGEco and the chain line was perfect.
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I have that setup and I purchased the NGeco MTB SRAM single power meter (boost). Works flawlessly.
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Same. I have that set up and it works great.
+1, I have the same one and it just works.
For those of you using NGeco Sram boost, what kind of chainring and bolts do you use?
Wolf Tooth 34T 104BCD chainring here. Make sure who ever sells you the chainring includes the correct bolts and knows the requirements of your spider power meter, boost and chainring combination. For example by buying all of the required items from one seller like Power Meter City.
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Buy everything from Power Meter City and you’re guaranteed to receive the correct (all compatible) hardware. I also got a 34T Wolf Tooth chain ring and they went ahead and assembled the chain ring to my NGeco.
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Not sure what you ended up going with, but I recently got a Rotor 2inPower… love it!!! It’s so so good, super durable and seems to give super accurate readings. Smashed the heck out of it on a huge rock when I misjudged a line, no problems.
Only gripe is the charge port plastic cover is cr@p. And £10 to replace.
I have had a Gen 1 and later got a Gen 3 stages and both units have had the same problem - gigantic power spikes (sometimes over 2000 watts) on bumpy downhills. I descend left foot forward, and have used them on hard tail mountain bikes. These spikes skew my power curve and I can’t trust months/years worth of accumulated data, which sucks. I know I am a beast, but not that much of a beast. 
It is time-consuming to go through every map route, spot the downhill sections and look for power spikes where I would have been standing in the pedals. It’s easy to edit out the 2000+ watt spikes, but I have noticed some power spikes on pure downhills which are more subtle.
Now the mystery is, I have the same gigantic power spikes on the Race face Cinch power meter I had on my 160mm MTB. I have often wondered if this is a common problem with power meters and technical mountain biking, and because we are such a tiny minority in the power meter-using population if these companies actually test them under such conditions.
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It’s going to be an issue with any spindle or crank arm based power meter for folks like us that descend left foot forward, but they should be able to be filtered by the software before they reach the head unit. For spider based units like the Quarq and NGEco, they shouldn’t have this issue since the strain guage is in a different place (at the cost of weight).
However, I’ve heard that the 4iiii meters are pretty good and they may be better at preventing the spikes.
Any MTB folks on 4iiii that are left foot descender care to chime in?
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I worry about pedal strikes!
Thoughts?
I used to swap a stages PM onto my cyclocross and MTB sometimes. Never had any issues but it was on my mind. Now I use Rotor InPower cranks and I don’t have to worry about it. As another data point for @stevemz, I descend left foot forward most of the time and haven’t had any noticeable spikes or inconsistencies from it. Small sample size, but it’s something.
which chainring do you use with that setup?
Did someone already pre-order the SRM X-Power SPD pedals? I saw them in a lot of Eurobike videos and they are on my list since then.
https://www.powermetershop.de/srm-x-power?&number=SW10964&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI25DdmYqk5wIVhuFRCh1DAwmeEAQYASABEgJlWfD_BwE
I personally prefer this option but I’m a little worried about it being their first gen pedals…
I’ve been hanging on waiting for these to appear in any of my usual online shops, but so far they haven’t. As much as I liked the idea of these pedals, ultimately I decided to go for the power2max NGEco for my GX Eagle crankset as it was a little easier on the pocket…
That said… if these turn out to be good (and I really hope they do!) I may well upgrade later in the year…
Has anyone messed with a boost-non boost mating for power2max?
Right now I have a non boost frame, running a sram crank. I know that my next bike will be boost no matter if I like it or not. Wondering can I buy a boost P2M and have it work on my current bike, or can I buy a nonboost one and have it work on a boost frame in the future. I have 2 P2M on my road and tri bike right now, and they are flawless, 0 issues ever. (and I live in rainy Seattle) so I would like to stick with the brand if at all possible.