I’ve had my omnirocker for seven months now and really love it. Really good quality bit of kit. Having the built in spirit level makes it easy to balance out. I prefer to inflate the balls to roughly the same pressure and then balance out by adding a weight to the drive side (I’m using a kickr core which is very one sided weight wise).
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center the bike on the pivot point and counterbalance…
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Methods to Balance a Rocker Plate
- There are three common methods to adjust for the imbalance that comes from the offset position of the heavy flywheel present on most trainers. Below is my most preferred method according to my testing and that from the majority of other rocker users.
Bike Centered, Counterweight, Equal Leveling Spring Pressure
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Install the Bike & Trainer with the Bike Centered Directly over the Rocker Plate Pivot Axis
- Note: Some trainers will appear “off-center” because their footprint is not perfectly centered with respect to the bike center axis.
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Add a Counterweight (10lb [5kg] is common) to the “Light” side of the Rocker Plate (usually the right side).
- Note: Some trainers are very balanced and need little if any counterweight. Use the Counterweight Setup steps to test and add or skip a counterweight as appropriate.
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Use Equal Pressure in the Leveling Springs.
- Note: This assumes that the Inflatable Balls are placed equal distances from the Rocker Plate Pivot Axis.
I also have detailed instructions on counterweight setup.
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Thinking more and more about something to make longer sessions more comfortable.
Probably not a DIY project for this one.
I like the KOM or equivalent from wiggle etc… (RideNow) for price but wonder if those with experience can answer:
1- Do the inflatable balls often need adjustment or reinflation from leaking. When going direct drive I greatly appreciate not having to mess with my setup (I.e. tire pressure) and would hate to be required to check the ball pressure every other week.
2- Clearly the cost of the single axis ball-suspension plates is 3-4x cheaper than the Saris MP1, but is the saris ultimately “next level” in comfort and maintenance over the lower cost options?
The saris seems crazy costly, but I suppose it could be dramatically better, I’ve seem various reviews but am not sure anyone has clearly addressed this to me (outside of noting how expensive it is).
I have a kickr 2016, maybe the eflex would also be worth looking at.
Not looking for “outdoor feel”, merely more comfort.
Thanks!
Tim
- Depends a bit on the specific ones in use, but the range of one’s I’ve used hold air well and maybe need a top-off about once per month. I check them anytime I am lubing my chain, which is about every 2-4 weeks depending on my schedule inside.
- The Saris MP1 IS crazy money. If you want the full action (left-right rocking and fore-aft motion) just go with the KOM Cycling RPV2 that has both motions. I just don’t see the need to fork over for the MP1 with the other options out there.
- I rode for years with just left-right rocking and benefited from the motion. I do like the fore-aft motion added though, but I can’t say for sure if I consider it a “requirement”. I would need to lock it out for a ride or two and see if I really notice the lack of motion in that direction as a problem.
- Many people consider the F-A motion essential for comfort, while others hate the motion and consider it wasteful. Sadly, it is individual and hard to predict.
- I would recommend at least looking at it. For regular Kickr users (and now a Core model), I think the E-Flex is likely the best bang for buck option out there. It includes all the motions, and uses steering input.
- I modded mine to feel even better (which is covered in a separate thread if you want to see it). It is the BEST feeling motion I have used short of motion rollers for inside riding.
- The base unit is awesome for the price well built. I highly recommend a good look for you.
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OK,
Time for something different. I’m ignoring the balls setup completely and going with pneumatic bellows.
I use these regularly and we have units from the 1980’s which run 24/7 that are still as good as new.
Better mounting, precise pressure repeatability between units and WAY more rugged. I’m finishing off a CAD design which will utilise these along with Rexroth linear ball rails and guides. Along its entire length will be a central pivot.
I intend to use long stroke ACE hydraulic shock absorbers to absorb any heavy fore / aft movement and use a turnbuckle spring system so spring tension can be fine tuned.
If anybody is interested I will post updates on here…
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For sure, please share updates.
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I am always curious about new parts and designs. I have seen those and generally presumed the stiffness of the rubber walls would lead to a more dead feel than a thin walled ball. Placement from the pivot axis will really matter here one way or the other.
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And I am interested in your shocks for fore-aft. I have a damper for testing, but the fluid and resistance is way too stiff. So I need to drive it with linkage or swap fluid to a lower viscosity to get any use from it.
Hi Chad,
We use little mini shock absorbers which have a dial on them. They go from being able to push fully home with your little finger to being pretty rock solid.
Thinking about it, it would be possible to dismiss the spring entirely and just run within.the range of the damper. IE the dampers are always in contact
You might see an improvement on sprint power utilizing these with a progressive damping rate.
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Yeah, the damper I have is a larger motorcycle steering damper. It is adjustable, but I had no idea how light it would go until I got it. I do want a damper with adjustable flow, to dial in for preference at the least. I also think having it adjustable from the bike would be great to have it loose for regular riding, and stiffen (of fully lock) it for racing or harder training.
I think it is an avenue that really needs to be explored, so it’s great to see you headed in that direction. I am keen to see the design and hear your feedback 
Will do.
What’s your opinion on a 2 deck system vs a 3 deck system ( Isolating fore / aft from tilt).
Seems to me that wear on the balls will be inevitable with vigorous fore / aft movement or do you disagree ?
These are the absorbers btw:
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No issues that I have seen. The typical f-a motion is under an inch and as long as you mount the balls between flat surfaces, or have properly chamfered edges for any holes, they work and wear well.
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Most balls in use are the “playground / dodge ball” variety, and they have plenty of abrasion resistance and durability.
Thanks for the link on the dampers. Will dig into those
Hi all,
I’ve been having a look at the Rocker Plate options recently after stumbling across the posts in some of the saddle sore threads.
Questions for the masses, apologies if the answer is above, I’m still working my way through the thread.
Does anyone have any experience with the JetBlack Rocker Plate? Does anyone have any experience putting an Elite Direto X/XR on a rocker plate?
Finally, is it worth it if the primary reason is to try and reduce the occurrence of saddle sores?
- The JetBlack rocker plate is a carbon copy of the original RideNow branded plate (from China) that is sold under the LifeLine and KOM Cycling names.
- Based on that, you can find many reviews (linked above) of any of those that will give you an idea of how they work.
- Hard to say with something like that since it can vary widely between individuals, but I personally have more comfort and less saddle issues with my trainer motion.
- The most common reason for, and benefit from adding trainer motion is “comfort”. That can yield better overall experience with lower instances of sores. But I know some people who still struggle with sores after adding motion, because they have issues beyond the motion, and are more fit related.
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While I rarely get saddle sores, having some motion (simple hack and then InsideRide) is welcome but didn’t improve comfort that much. Even coupled with getting out of the saddle every 5 minutes. On a gen1 Trek Domane with a seat mast that moves quite a bit because its a 58cm frame. In other words, a 90+ minute indoor trainer ride is still quite literally a pain in the ass. I’ve done 3 hours indoors and simply got off the bike every 30 minutes to finish it without too much drama. FWIW outside I’ve done 6-16 hour days, bike fit is not an issue.
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any progress on this? I’m looking at getting some pods to upgrade my basic setup
Cross posting my Inside Ride E-Flex Core version.
Really excellent and at $450 think it’s a gamechanger sitting between DIY and $1000+ options.
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Yup, it’s one of the best rockers around, and the price is a great topper.
I live around the corner from Swim Bike Run, makers of the SBR Rocker which is selling like hot cakes. I built my own in February for $200. I put on several coats of acrylic polyurethane so I can sweat all over it without issues.
I decided to go the route of using small inflatable balls and bushings down the middle. I also soldered together a pole for my unit’s controller.
I can post a link to the plans if anyone is interested.
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For some reason, your pics didn’t come through properly.
Am digging the computrainer yo !!