I have sneaking suspicion it could be the internal sleeve between the two cups as they are a sort of two halves which push fit but the brake hose was pushing up whichever half I put in first. So the sleeve could be rubbing in the middle of the axle if the two pieces aren’t straight.
It makes no difference if the preload is adjusted or not. It’s just a whirring noise almost like a whispering whhhhzzzz sound as though something plasticky is rubbing.
Ah ok, yeah, well the torque wrench was clicking and once it has clicked there was no more movement like there can be with lower torques. It’s tight. Woe betide what happens when I need to fit a new BB 
You’re fine then… the drag on the bolts shoulder goes from something to infinity pretty quickly. Washers exist to allow you to get a higher tq load, but at the point where there’s a steep ramp you’re just stressing the intersection between the head and shaft, not stretching the bolt (adding clamping force)
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I have removed SRAM DUB cranks on my Gravel and MTB many times and according to my LBS the DUB MTB Cranks are notorious for being stubborn to take off. I don’t have a torque wrench that goes beyond 12Nm and usually put on pedals, casettes, centerlock disc brake rotors and cranks quite firm but highly doubt I’m anywhere close to 54Nm.
Does that really make that much of a difference if cranks are tightened to 40 or 50 or 60 Nm? Aren’t those threads “the opposite way” - when you pedal you’d tighten them - like pedal-threads?
If I’m thinking about it right, it’s not like pedaling, because you’re only putting significant pressure on one pedal at a time (when pedaling), and there are bearings that reduce the torque on the bolt/crank arm), and always in the same direction, and each pedal is acting independently of the other pedal.
(ETA: the below paragraph doesn’t account for the splines that lock the axle to the crank arm, which I forgot about, and BCM pointed out)
The crank bolt is torqued so high to resist the force you’re putting on it when you’re standing on the pedals with both feet at the same time (pedals level) and certainly the added impact of landing a jump with flat feet, because one foot is acting on that bolt clockwise while the other is acting counter-clockwise on the same bolt at the same time. And if you switch from right foot forward to left foot forward, you’ve reversed the direction of the force acting on that bolt/crank axle interface.
So, it isn’t a self-tightening condition like the pedal axle to crank connection.
“Aren’t those threads “the opposite way” - when you pedal you’d tighten them - like pedal-threads?”
they are right thread so the bolt gets tighter as you pedal, but that’s the opposite of pedals which are reverse thread on the right side so they don’t get tighter as you pedal otherwise we would see a lot more pedals that people can’t remove.
Threads are standard. They don’t tighten themselves further because the interface between right side crank and spindle is splined in a star shape of sorts. The force isn’t on the bolt, it’s on the splines. Once you bottom out the crank / spindle, the two sides aren’t getting closer together, you’re putting stretch / clamping force into the bolt.
Yeah, my statement was a bit vaguely formulated. I meant in case you didn’t thighten them to spec, it wouldn’t matter because you turn the pedal in the opposite direction od the threads (if that would even matter, which seems not to be the case because the bearings in the bb and the bushings in the pedal don’t „catch on“). Can’t describe what I actually mean, but of a language barrier there on my part
Doh! Yeah, was too early to see the splines in my cloudy coffee starved mind.
that makes sense, I still wonder why they are so tricky to remote after a while, clearly the spline connecting both would not allow the bolt to turn as you pedal
If you don’t adequately grease the splines, leave dirt in there, damage threads, you could get some stickiness.
With that said, I use a Milwaukee cordless impact wrench for removal and it comes off in literally a second or two every time as that cap makes it self extracting. When I snug everything down, I make sure everything is clean and re-greased (lightly!) and then I tighten by hand using an 8mm Allen Key until snug, and then torque with the torque wrench.
I will say the BBInfinite BB, and the impact wrench and a decent torque wrench make this a REAL easy job. For me - this is all on my MTB which gets a lot dirtier and where I end up submerging the BB at least a couple times a season where I want to be able to take the whole thing apart, clean, and re-grease. A little different on a road bike that never gets dunked in a mud hole like that.
So, I think I have a cordless impact driver in a case with the cordless drill …but I’m guessing it won’t be very powerful …what sort of power/voltage are we talking @BCM. This seems a good plan when I need to get the chainset off!
Mine is 18V - Milwaukee Fuel M18. Generally with an impact you don’t need as much torque as you think, 40 ft-lbs isn’t that much.
The nice part is you just hold onto one of the crank arms, you don’t need to brace it like you do trying to crank it off with a breaker bar or socket wrench.
it hasn’t been a problem for me anymore after getting in the right/comfortable position to get some leverage and be able to remove the bolt, I just use a regular ratchet with a long handle
You used an impact wrench on your bike? Was the frame carbon? Any concerns with damaging the nut, bottom bracket, or frame?
All the time on multiple bikes, all carbon frames. No concerns whatsoever. I’m using it on the nut at the center of the crank, loosening only, never tightening… You’re dealing with metal on metal on all parts involved. Metal allen socket, metal bolt, metal spindle. Remember, cranks are designed to take rock hits and get banged around, and you’re dealing with a 40lb-ft 8mm bolt not something small and delicate.
In a lot of ways, it’s less stress because you’re not doing all sorts of bracing against the frame and cranks . and torquing at other angles when using a breaker bar of sorts. Literally zips right off, 100% a radial loosening force against the bolt and I’ve seen mechanics do this too.
So I tried the impact driver I had on another bike with dub last night. It didn’t shift the bolt at all, just a lot of rat-tat-tat and a little tarnishing on the Allen bit after I pulled it out. So I assume the one I have just isn’t up to the job!
Assume you mean you’ve seen bike mechanics do this, not car mechanics?!?! 
Could be. Mine is a burly one, a dedicated 18v electric impact not a drill/driver, with a lot of loosening torque, and I have kept that bolt greased and properly torqued. (Milwaukee 2767-20 M18, 1’2" High Torque - I just checked and it’ll do 1,400 ft-lb of loosening torque )
Definitely yes on bike mechanics doing this though
Although, I’m a tool whore. Used to have a race car and do a lot of work on cars. I’ve been burned so many times by not having the right tool for the job, the pendulum has probably swung pretty far in the other direction now that my wrenching is mostly on the bikes.
Ah ok, yep, a burly one needs to be in my future by the sounds of it
I have loads of Erbauer 18v batteries for drills, multi tools and stuff and looks like they do a 1/2" drive impact wrench with ~500Nm so probably will take a look at that