Annoyingly despite two disassembles and cleaning of the pawls the clunk is there. It’s gone back to only occurring on the lower gears.
So maybe my assumption that it was the pawls not seating was wrong and the hunt for the clunk goes on!
Since it’s only in higher torque lower cadence situations I thinking maybe it’s at the crank end so maybe the ring is worn… Although I’d be surprised as it’s got less than 8k km on it.
FWIW: I’ve used 80W90 gear oil in my pawl based freehubs for years. It’s got high pressure modifiers and is not so viscous as to inhibit snappy pawl engagement. It has stayed put where needed. I have Paul’s Tenacious oil, but prefer the gear oil.
Thought I’d update cos that bloody noise/feeling through pedals is still there!
Rear wheel has had full bearing refresh
New freehub as bearings couldn’t be removed
Different pedals swapped in
Cranks pulled, cleaned and all bolts checked
I’m now not sure what it could be. Having had a full bearing and freehub refresh I’d hope the shop is happy it’s not the wheel. Only thing in the drivetrain not replaced is the chainring or cranks. Or maybe I just buy new wheels but that’s a bit expensive! Sadly my other 11 speed bolt through is MTB spaced so can’t test.
I had a clunk under load. Drove me nuts but I eventually found it. My cassette was a bit loose even though the locking was tightened properly. Needed a small washer and all is good.
I would first check with the wheel off and see if the cassette is in fact loose by pulling to away from the hub. If you end up needing a spacer, it should go on before the cassette.
How long is your chain? Could the derailleur be rubbing on the cassette? (Check the B-tension screw too).
Also I had a grindy noisy feeling once (but no clunk), and it came from the jockey wheels having run out of grease! I thought they were ok, because they were spinning freely, but my mate said “maybe too freely”. Swapping the bearings sorted it.
You changed the freehub, right? So we can rule out freehub bearings and sticky pawls. (Assume you cleaned the hub bit of the freehub, and also that it doesn’t have any unusual wear?)
I have had “grindy feel” with very worn dirty chainrings, but it usually went away when they were clean. But worth a try for sure.
Yeah, shop did the freehub while doing all the bearings. I fully appreciate that chainring is a unlikely candidate but I’m starting to clutch at straws!
New chainring didn’t cure it. Riding with the clutch off still had some crunches. Think I’ve totally exhausted things I can change without lots of cash (new wheels or drivetrains) so guess I’ll have to bite the bullet and get the shop to ride and fix her.
What a palaver!
Edit: cunning plan to work out if wheel or drivetrain…. stick on turbo and changing gears lots in myWoosh. Fingers crossed!
Well, it’s not conclusive but 20 mins on the turbo shifting through the 11-30 block didn’t have have the clunk slight pedal jump.
So I think I’ve narrowed it down a bit and semi confirmed it’s the rear hub. Annoyingly all bearings swapped and a new free hub were fitted in the spring so I’m not sure what is left that’s borked. Guess I’ll be getting greasy again after work!
Pawls and ratchet after stripping and nothing look wrong.
I pulled the freehub off again last night to check wear again and couldn’t see anything with the pawls or teeth but am hoping someone might have some ideas before I get a new hub built on to the rim.
Assuming the shop just wants to swap parts it’s new hub time, on my MTBs I’m a long term Hope user for rebuildability.
Anything similar for dropbar bike or just go for a their road hub in the rear? Or is something like a DT Swiss as easy to get parts for?