You can measure out the handlebar stack and reach of the Propel since you like the way it is set up for you and then see which size Ridley comes close annd can be adjusted to TT position. That should get you to a good starting point. You can always go up a bit on stem length for reach. Shortening stuff up too much on a bigger bike just doesn’t seem right to me but in this case, the Ridley is already more aggressive than the Propel in S to start with, the XS is going to be that much more based on the numbers
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Be careful measuring stack and reach in the traditional way if you have different geometries. The standard way to measure reach is to take the distance between the BB and a vertical line drawn down from the centre of the head tube (or the bars if you want handlebar reach). This allows a repeatable measurement, and if you are comparing like with like then it’s really useful.
In this case though, the Dean has a seat angle of 77*. This will mean that the saddle is significantly in front of where the saddle would be (with the same seatpost and saddle) on the Propel (at 73*). Not only will this feel different while pedalling, but it will also make the distance from the saddle to the bars shorter. This needs to be taken into account when thinking about reach…
The same (though to a much lesser extent) is true of stack, because moving the saddle forwards means you also need to move it up to maintain the same distance to the pedals.
Love this thread, learning a lot hearing different peoples perspectives. Wondering if anyone wants to take a look at my fit and see if anything stands out. Starting to feel a little cramped up front, especially when getting in the drops so wondering if I should experiment with stem length. Also notice i tend to sit over on my right side more so.
I have an issue when sitting on the bike where it seems that the right side of my pelvis is tilted further forward than the left side. I think this is the root of a few issues where I have more trouble letting go of the bars with my right hand, only my right shoulder cramps during particularly hard efforts and only the left side of my lower back aches after a long ride.
Are there any fit changes that can be made, or is this more about personal flexibility and maybe a question for a physiotherapist?
A single pic is limiting (of course), but overall I don’t see any red flags. Assuming that you are happy with your position on the saddle (fore-aft), the idea of playing with stems to adjust reach/drop is good.
Also, depending on the bars you have, you could look for a different reach/drop setup there too. It’s more work than a stem, so I think stems is a fine place to start for faster changes.
First thing to do is have another person look at you from behind. With you on a trainer, get them to stand behind you and look down at your hips and pelvis. See if you are sitting “square” on the saddle or shifted with one side forward. This assumes a straight saddle, so make sure that is the case first.
Some people have body alignment or injury issues that lead to them sitting crooked. Do you experience more soreness or pain on one side or the other? Often, a crooked position will lead to overloading on one side that can show as saddle sores or simple pain. It can also manifest into lower body pain from misalignment between the left and right sides.
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Thanks, I’ll get someone to stand behind me as soon as I can.
I do get saddle sores occasionally though not often. However, when I do get them they are always on the left side.
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Hey guys, general question. My upper back is hurting after a couple days on my new Dogma. The bike is a size down from what I’d usually use. Also, the bars are slightly narrower, 420 vs usual 440. Saddle is exactly as I’d usually run, 807ish, neg 1 tilt. Stem is up a notch to 130 from the usual 120 for the size down. Bar drop is definitely more now, which is intentional for aero gains.
Think the back pain is attributable to the increased drop? I can bring it up a bit if need be, still have steer tube to work with. Thanks!
To really guess better, it would help to know the exact reach/drop from your prior bike as compared to the current bike (from the saddle).
Without that, your guess seems on target.
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Yeah I’m going from 120 to 150, is that a lot? Might have to dial back the aero lol
30mm is a fair change, especially if you are on the limit of your current physical comfort and/or limits. You may well just need some time to adjust. A split adjustment may help work down to your goal.
Yeah i only have 10 to work with, but that ought to solve the problem if needed. Thanks!
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Looks like you could also adjust the angle of the bars to bring the hoods a little closer and higher.
Nice looking bike btw. Looks fast!
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Thanks! Yeah, very quick and responsive so far. Most amazing bike I’ve ever ridden, probably. Found a good deal on a disc brake pinarello. its a 16 F8, F10’s are the rage now.
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I had a ReTul fit two years ago and really happy with it, wouldn’t change a thing either than…my three outside toes on my left foot go numb on both the CX bike and road bike after about 15-minutes of threshold power/pressure.
My fitter put me on insoles that just did not work, at all, immediate loss of feeling the first time I rode outside. I think that I have a super-high arch because I have the best results with the “large” Giro insoles and when I go to s smaller insole, all toes on both feet go numb. So I’m curious if adding arch/instep support is a route that I should go to try and diagnose this, or if it’s outside the capabilities of a layman to address this? I have 5* of pronation on the right foot, 7* on the left.
Could you try to post another video of yourself riding on the hoods of your handlebar? A full side-view video would also be better.
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As above, not much to go on here. Hoods and drop position are worthwhile.
What if any concerns or goals do you have? Fitting is about making the bike fit the rider and their goals or adapt to issues. Hard to make any real recommendations without more info.
Sorry, I will take a better video with more positions and a more complete view.
I’m primarily a mountain biker who pretty much only rides the road bike on the trainer. My concerns are with the static nature of the trainer that I am optimizing my fit and position for both performance in my TR workouts and avoiding any potential injuries or problems that would come from riding in a bad position for hours at a time. Wanted to make sure nothing looks obviously out of place like saddle height, reach, saddle setback, etc.
Hey @mcneese.chad - I was wondering if you had any thoughts about translating a saddle fit for road bike onto TT bike?
Background: I recently had a road bike fit where I moved from a Fizik Arione to a Specialized Romin Evo Pro. The rationale was that the slight curve up towards the back allows me to tilt my hips forward and achieve a more aggressive position without putting undue pressure on the perineum. So far, I’ve been completely happy - did a 100 mile ride with 3500m climbing and saddle discomfort was never an issue.
However, on the TT Bike, I’m using a Fizik Tritone 6.5, and I do find it difficult to ride for long intervals or longer time trials. Being completely comfortable seems like an unrealistic goal, but could I possibly take some cue from the road bike fit and find a saddle that has a bit more support towards the rear?
For information, this is close to my current TT Bike position (the front end is now maybe 10mm lower).
