Value for money gravel/ adventure bike or a cyclocross bike

  • MFGR = abbreviation for 'Manufacturer" and the limits is about any potential rating that they may state for things like the maximum number of spacers to be used under the stem.
  • Without searching each one out, I think it’s generally safe to assume that the steer tube length on the fork, the stem, and spacers provided are considered “acceptable” as supplied in the box from the bike manufacturer.
  • I have not seen it, but makes sense with the desire to keep sufficient weight on the front wheel, for best handling and cornering. I also have a preference to move a rider forward vs rearward if there are reach issues to the bar.
  • I started my fitting journey in 1997, by luck. I started part time at a bike shop, where the owner bought the “Fit Kit Systems” business. I got a full introduction and instruction on their fitting and even helped with manufacturing ideas for their products. I tinkered with my own fit for years after that when that shop closed and the Fit Kit business was sold.

  • I ended up getting a job offer with a different shop in 2014 and training with the Specialized Body Geometry system in their 3 steps (winter of 2014, 2015, 2016). I have fitted part time since that first year.

  • As to the other systems, Retul and Specialized Body Geometry merged, and I’ve been exposed to both. The other systems are all pretty similar in concept, from what I have seen of them. I don’t think the systems have any real magic or deficiencies.

  • What matters most in fitting is the fitter. The most important tools to a fitter are their ears (listen to the rider, their comments, and stated needs), eyes (watch each and every aspect of the rider, on and off the bike), brain (mix all those inputs together in an effort to make the bike fit the overall goals and needs of the rider).

  • Point being that all the tech in the fitting world is worthless if the fitter running it is not engaged properly with the rider. Too often we as fitters, tend to apply our own experience and dogma into a fit process. It takes active work from the fitter to keep an open mind and be willing to alter the fit and process as needed. It is not beneficial if the fitter is wholly locked into a process and unwilling or unable to adapt it when appropriate.

  • So, I care more about the fitter than the process or tools that they are using. A good fit can come from the simplest tools or the most complex.

  • I have not had any with that particular limit, but it is the default option if range of motion at the hip is an issue.
  • That’s a good summary. Also part of that (and the reason for the forward rotation for the TT) is to get the upper body as low as practical. By maintaining a general leg-hip-back relationship, the TT position is essentially a road position, just rotated forward from the BB as the pivot point.
  • Good deal. Don’t be afraid to ask lots of questions. Get clarification as to why they make the adjustments or recommendations. There should be a clear reason for each position or adjustment.
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I started with my 2018 on Gravel and just couldnt do it. Its my first high end bike in 15 years and wanted to keep it safe from gravel. I picked up an e5 aluminum diverge and loved it. But I really did not like the mechanical disc brakes and the fact that it could only take a 37 mm tire. Ive sold the e5 and am looking at a diverge carbon with grx on it and a revolt. Im leaning towards the Diverge as I love the bike but it is over 2 times the price of the revolt. I much prefer a 2x system to the 1x and I hate that the revolts use fsa cranks. If I go diverge I can bring my power meter over from the 105 on the roubaix.

In the end the revolt is an amazing bike. My buddy owns the orange revolt and loves it. He has one set of wheels for gravel and one set for road.

If I buy the revolt I need to spend a lot on upgrades… Ill probably buy the diverge as I love the future shock.