A wheel-swap and casette-swap is what I would prioritize.
Be aware that some of the early eagle derailleurs can not (at least not officially) handle the 10-52 cassette. Max 50. But then again, the 10-50 cassette can often be found a lot cheaper than the 10-52.
The crank swap would also be a functional swap, so that makes sense, but I would not have changed from NX to GX crankset for the weight alone.
Brakes; Are there any problems with the G2R brakes? I can not see that Level bronze is worth the money if the G2R does work as intended. In some cases brake performance can be bettered a lot by changing the type of pads you use, or going up one size in rotors. If you want really light brakes for a good prize take a look at Magura. I believe the Magura MT7 (or MT8) or even MT5 are lighter than those sram brakes for a good prize. They does work very good also, but please do some reserch first because they have some drawbacks also and are a bit love/hate for a lot of people.
Iād definitely go with X01 cassette and XX1 chain if you can and wax the chain. Itās a higher up front investment but it will be worth it over time because these cassettes and chains last longer! I run a GX shifter on my commuter bike and apart from not being able to adjust the lever it works flawlessly and I donāt see a reason to replace it with an X01 or XX1 for functionality.
I personally avoid SRAM brakes on MTB. I have had Code RSC and Level TL(M?) and didnāt like either. I run Shimano brakes. Wolftooth makes a compatible shift mount so you can mount your SRAM shifter on Shimano brakes, but itās not necessary - just looks cleaner.
There is actually no need to pay extra for the XX1 chain, as the X01 is basically the same product.
Zero Friction Cycling tests show that the chains perform equally well.
youāre right. XX1 only if you want black, gold or copper
I wanted a black chain so I went XX1.
So I pulled the trigger on the Hunt wheelset, so will be buying another set of rotors, I may need 2 sets of rotors if I change brake pad compounds, I previously did switch brake pads from the stock ones which SRAM seems to indicate would be the Quiet Powerful and I switched to the Quiet Light I believe without changing rotors.
If I started fresh with HS2 rotors on both wheelsets what are the better pads to get for XC racing mainly in dry conditions?
Was looking at stuff like the Jagwire Elites https://www.hlc.bike/ca/Catalog/Item/210475-06 , Swiss Stop Exotherms https://www.hlc.bike/ca/Catalog/Item/210452-06 or maybe going back to the OEM SRAM Organic powerfuls https://www.hlc.bike/ca/Catalog/Item/210302-04
Ideally I would like to keep the original centreline rotors on my stock wheels I will use for training, would rubbing alcohol and burning or anything prep them to be ready for a brake pad compound change rather than tossing the rotors?
I think Iām going to grab a YBN gold chain as a race chain, have a new XO1 chain waxed and ready to go, will use that as my training chain going forward once my 2 GX chains start getting worn.
Iām removing my dropper post!
With my āAā race coming up (MTB 100) and feeling a bit sluggish on my MTB (versus my gravel bike), Iāve gone into a bit of a weight weenie mode. Furthermore, I barely use my dropper post (Transfer SL) while riding in MI. So, Iāve concluded why bother carrying around that extra O.95 pounds (432g). Removing a few other miscellaneous bits Iām over a pound, all of which is high on the bike (seat post and handlebars).
Combining this with a new wheel set the bike should be closer to 2 pounds less total. Making a few gear adjustments that looses another 1.5-2 pounds. Over 100 miles and 9,000 feet of mostly single track climbing, Iām hoping this will be noticeable.
I donāt have strong opinions on pads but good call putting the same rotors on both wheels. The HS2 specifically is a thicker rotor than others so you would have issues with pad clearance if you tried to mix and match.
HS2 is heavier than Centerline X but does stop a bit better in my experience.
Seems like a trend in this thread recently of a lot of people not running droppers. I couldnāt imagine not having a dropper in CO but I could lose a ton of weight not having the full chonk Reverb AXS.
I wish someone would make an ultralight dropper with an old fashioned seat post lever so itād be easy to swap in and out for events where you want drop for a few key descents and would sacrifice some convenience for weight. Spring based would be fine to save weight.
HS2 is a huge improvement imho, galfer and/or trickstuff (harder to buy) pads are also huge improvement over SRAM. I used and didnāt like the red pads from MTX
I bought a set of the heavier Hunt Proven XC30 wheels this year. They came in a little over 1500 grams without the valves installed. First carbon MTB wheels for me and first time riding 30mm rims. I put a set of Vittoria Peyote 2.4s on them. Was able to drop tire pressure to 17f/18r with a 195 pound rider. Most of our trails are pretty tame for square edge hits etc. Like the set up a lot, would have liked to see the wheels come in at specāed weight. eventually going to get a set of berds, I like to support the local guys, ride a lot of HED wheels for that reason.
how do you like the peyote so far? I got a mezcal/peyote 2.4 combo to run
Love 'em. Used to run a mez/mez or barz/mez combo and fin the peyotes to be every bit as grippy or more than the mez.
What are your typical trail conditions and how are the dry vs wet?
Most trails here close with even a little rain, so, mostly dry clay, some trails have sand over hard and other can be like marbles over hard. Typically put the barzo on the front for the marbles and when the sand starts to come to play. That said, the cornering knobs on the peyotes hook up so well, they might stay on when things get sandy. Race on sunday has some of the marbles to contend with, but planning on sticking with the peyotes for how wet it has been here. For reference, I live in Minnesota, ride Elm Creek a lot. First race of the year was mostly hard pack with some loose descents, that everyone seemed to be timid on. Was impressed with how hard I could brake and not skid.
Nice! I should weigh mine too. I also picked up an Evo on mega sale a few months ago. Iāve swapped pretty much the same as you minus I put my Fox 34 SC on it. Still need to put on my new Level Ultimate brakes and Fox Transfer SL dropper. I think once I do that, Iāll be around 23-24 pounds. Iām itching to replace the stock bar/stem with something lighter, but I like how it feels.
Had my first MTB ride without a dropper. Had one previous shake out gravel endurance ride the day before. To give it a proper test, I went for PR attempt on the most challenging trail in lower Michigan (Potawatomi Trail), which is also a good gauge of where your trail fitness is at. Well, not only did I not miss the dropper, but after being on a dropper for the past 4 years in my opinion they are highly overrated! I PRād this trail loop by over 4 minutes (1:15:15 finishing time). Much of this is due to my better fitness this year, but the dropper is heavier (0.61 lbs) and more āflexyā.
Not to mention, I felt like I could put out more power with the rigid post. I noticed this both on the gravel roads the day before and during the almost 4:30 hour trail ride. Both the saddle height and setback were the same, so the post is the only change. I do notice there is quite a bit of wiggle in the Transfer SL.
Yep, itās one of the reasons I swapped out the Fox Transfer with a OneUp.
Iāve had the fox, OneUp v2, Bike Yoke Devine, PNW Coast, and TransX. The Bike Yoke and OneUp have almost no wiggle. PNW has a touch as does the Fox. TransX is the worst of the lot.
Did you try this attempt with the Ray/Ralph combo? If so, do you think it helped any as you said in the other thread that the tires were seeming to be quicker on downhills.
Great work!
Yes. I love those tires! Also I went full weight weenie and removed over a pound of total weight from the bike. Still waiting on my rear wheel to lose a bit more weight.