It’s the same company; presumably your shop could get one in?
Fair point on the geo which does end up a tad short once you put a 120 fork onto it.
That said, it is an xc race bike so one is less hampered by the need to balance that with a shorter stem - I’d prefer a 475-480 reach in a large but I’m happy to run a 90mm vice a 70mm stem as the upside is you can then get the front end lower down.
It’s a compromise, but here in the EU a ZFS frameset is 2000E, and an s works epic frameset is 6900E.
I had been seeing you continuing to mention them but there are none available in the US so I thought maybe you guys were lucky with inventory over there…
Anyone seen any hints that Giant will release the updated Anthem (to match the Liv Pique - 120/120, 1300g frameset without shock, second cage under top tube).
Giants frameset only prices are always so reasonable…
Don’t know of any firm rumors but Alan Hatherly just signed to Jayco which rides Giant. He’ll be on the worldtour road squad but will still ride some XC. The reigning world champ probably wouldn’t have signed without seeing the new Anthem so I’d expect him to be on it next year.
You’re right that it’s probably not the reason he signed, he’s on the Scalpel now which seems to be well liked. But I doubt he would have made jump if they told him he’d have to ride the current Anthem in 2025 which would be a step backward for him.
I mean it’s not exactly miles behind. There are plenty of people racing and flying on the lux CFR, which is 110/100 as well. Frustratingly of giant the old anthem is 100 on a 45mm stroke shock, so even though the liv looks similar it’s actually a totally new frame + rocker to get 120mm from the same shock (so you can’t just snip the shock spacer).
100g lighter as a frameset than an s works epic 8.
Have about 50 miles on these so far, they’re absolutely awesome. Haven’t been babying them whatsoever. Don’t have much to say about the rims per se, they seem nice and strong. I think I hit rim once or twice on drops to flat and no issues at all.
Going to put them away for winter and go to a more trail set of wheels/tires since the hidden rocks under leaves are terrifying on Ray/Ralph right now but that’s no fault of the wheels.
1490ish plus shock (so a smidge heavier than a zfs-5, lighter than an s works epic 8, circa same as anthem)
Headset routing
67 ha
Low seat tube so can take like a 180 dropper
120/120 but can take up to 130
Odd 180*55 shock size (can’t get a float SL)
3 bottles!?
Top tube bag bottle bosses
UDH
1799 USD frame only no shock
1750 direct but no panda podium QC
The more I look at this the more I find this persuasive.
If only I could get a float SL or sidluxe FA in that size - they only do the reg float and the ohlins is like 700usd shock only. Also, a 185 shock is usually like +100g on a 165.
My SRAM level brakes need bleeding far too often - are shimano the way to go? Nothing to expensive but an upgrade to 4 pistons would be nice. Note; i have small hands so like the levers to be close-ish to the bars with an easy bit of reach adjust.
Also, the bar roll/rotation feels off on my shallow rise XC bars - like my wrists/hands are going to roll forwards off the grips when it gets bumpy.
I know its personal but after messing around a bit i still cant find a good position and dont want to end up always going back and forth. Anyone suggest a good starting point or tips to set bar rotation/rise/backsweep please?
Just a thought, but maybe also look into your brake lever position? If they’re angled too far down, that might put your hands in a compromised position.
Yeah you might have a point, i took my levers off to adjust the reach and swap the format around so maybe i’ve put them back differently. Ill have a look again
4-piston Shimano have a really soft bite. They’ve got about 20% less bite (by piston area) than the 2pot. Unless you’re doing sustained braking, the 2-pot Shimano might feel like a better brake.
Your SRAM shouldn’t need bleeding that often. Unless a hose is leaking, a piston seal is bad, or the bleed screw is bad, it’s your bleed procedure. SRAMs brakes seem to come from the factory with lots of tiny bubbles that you can’t get out. Rather than trying to chase down a problem, if the price is right, it might make sense to replace though. The Shimano mineral oil seems to not hold air bubbles as well as DOT fluid does.
I just want to make sure that if all things are proper such as no leaks or bladder issues etc that you are not bleeding the brakes when you actually need to be replacing the pads more often?
That being said, I am not a fan of SRAM brakes - I am a huge fan of Shimano 2-pot brakes for XC riding/racing. I run metallic pads and bleed my brakes once every other season and that is just to make sure the fluid is not dirty etc.
I replace the pads every season or a twice a season but I don’t see very long mountainous downhills.
SRAM brakes to me are soft, but very modular. I like a brake that isn’t as modular with a very noticeable on/off position (Shimano).