I am a returning TR user after running different systems for training over the last 2 years. The ongoing updates and changes seem to fit with how I am going to need to train and plan moving forward which is great.
Time Trialing is going to be my main focus. Due to covid restrictions, these were the only race format that went ahead last year and therefore will be able to go ahead next year. Also, I feel this is where my strengths tend to lay being a larger rider. Oh and I seem to enjoy holding horrible pain for a prolonged period of time…
I was hoping we could make a bit of a thread to showcase the plan structures people have used, the success, the things they learned, good research / information etc.
Does anyone know the numbers of the podcast when the crew took to targeting the 40k TT??
Similar here, I usually ride CX and MTB but currently working through Base, then Sustained Power Build, then 40km TT - in expectation of doing some TT in the spring. I have an old TT bike from when I did some triathlon several years ago - put it on the turbo recently and wondered how I ever rode it with the saddle it has … so aiming to get a split nose ISM saddle soon. Otherwise my position is reasonably comfortable.
Would be interested in tips for a TT noob - guess in some rough order it would be:
practice staying in position over the winter on the turbo
when weather is better, try it on the road
then for equipment, think about skinsuit, better helmet, then wheels?
Try elevating your front wheel, even more thana standard riser block. Many people have a hard time getting in their aero position on a trainer, but can sustain it outdoors. Lots of theories why…lack of wind resistance, no gyroscope effect, etc. but elevating the front wheel will allow you to hold your position longer indoors.
@ wysbf2
Swapping to ISM saddle was the best move I made. However care is needed in selecting which one & expect to spend quite a bit of time to get the angle etc. just right.
Practice staying in position on the turbo is vital to get the same power output as a more upright road position but don’t over do it like I did last Winter & end up with a rotator cuff overuse injury.
I can highly recommend getting a couple of cheap mirrors & placing one in front of you & one to the side to check on your body & helmet position & trying to present a smaller profile to the wind whilst on the turbo.
For anything over 100 miles I tend to lift the pads about 2cm with risers. Having done a few Ironman’s I find it quite amusing to see riders with aggressive positions sitting up after 50 miles when the can’t hold position for 112 miles come race day.
Didn’t test at all last year as was focussed on an IM until that was canned. Will definitely be back at the Tuesday night 10s this year.
Ride a Planet X Exocet 2 with zipp 900 and 60mm px up front. Tubular because I’m old school.
Had a wind tunnel session earlier this year as a birthday present and tweaked my position to get my cda pretty low and look forward to using it in anger!
I’m mulling over whether to do 100 mile TT in 2021. I’m a triathlete coming back from a year long recovery from injury, based in the UK too. Similarly, I have all the gear… but I definitely have no idea TT seems like a safe bet for 2021.
I would love to hear people’s training progression for the 100 mile distance. Actually, any insight or pointers at all would be really interesting. There seems to be a bit of a dearth of info on this distance, maybe I’m looking in the wrong places.
This is definitely not an elaborate way to justify buying a carbon disc wheelset…
As another UK-based tester, fully support this! Also thinking of “going longer” in some races next year after two years of mainly 10s and 25s. Only really felt like I’d finally “dialled in” my position for aero/comfort 18 months into riding a TT bike - before then the thought of 100mile seemed impossible! +1 for the ISM saddle in helping that too…
On training in position: I think it’s highly individual. At first I thought I had a drop off between my road bike and TT bike FTP, but in reality it was as much overestimating my road bike FTP as anything. This season gone, i found that I could train mainly on my road bike indoors, and then still put the power out for a 25 mile TT in position once every week or two. Potentially targeting longer races though might mean this needs to change. What I’d say is I don’t think there’s one set rule for which bike to train on inside, it’s pretty individual.
In term’s of training with longer events in mind, I’m looking to do two long (>4hr) rides on the weekend where possible, and just increase the z2 volume inside. Doing one or two sweetspot ride a week focusing on progressing length of intervals, and finally doing some strength work off the bike (squats, core etc.). With no end in sight to lock down and little else to do, I’m going for volume as my main stimulus this winter, ideally looking to hit 14-15 hours a week.
My questions for other people: I’ve got a fairly basic Dolan Aria frameset, largely with pre-2010 style aero features, external cables etc. (also lucky to have access to a Zipp 808 and disc). I can’t realistically afford a new TT bike/frame anytime soon, but could probably spare a couple of hundred quid for some aero components. I think the front end is what could be most easily tidied up. Is an aero-specific brake worth it? Are there any recommendations for base bars/skis that are good value + would represent an upgrade in aero/comfort on my current set up?
I went with a TriRig front brake this season. It tidied up the front end brake cable run no end & works far better than I expected as a brake; at least as good as the Dura-Ace one it replaced.
Not cheap but I notice the UK stockist has them discounted for Black Friday.
Cheers - yeah, just looking at aero testing they did for the Omega and apparently 4w at 30mph. Not sure that’s worth £200, which could go towards a custom skinsuit etc. which could easily be way more saving - even getting a retro fit no pinz number slot for £50 is usually more than 5w.
Looking at your head on picture, reminds me I use a cable tie just behind the stem to pull the gear cable outers into a position less in the wind on my P3. More aero for about 2p.
No, your position on the bike is the same…saddle tilt does not factor into this. Your body (and bike) is just angled slightly upwards vs. what it would be on the road, but your position relative to the bike remains constant.