Sent them a message. We’ll see what they have to say but I’m not optimistic. I wonder if some patent/ip issues came up that made them skittish. Too bad since I waited a while on the back order list to get these. I guess I should have pulled the trigger sooner.
Did you end up doing this?
I did - the axle fitted into the CXR exactly as others describe above. I’ve yet to test them out but it paired with the app on my iPhone and my Wahoo Bolt.
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Maybe it’s just the lighting in the pic, but I still see a hexagon shaped nut.
It just has a large chamfer at the top.
Ref pic with chamfer circled:
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You’re right! I was looking inside the silver bit. I’ll delete my comment.
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No need to delete. I think it shows how hard it is to see a dark colored nut in a deep hole. I think the pic from @Billm shows a similar hex, hiding in there.
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Yeah, I actually though he was talking about the silver ring (end of spindle?) that I highlighted in yellow. That’s why I said “mine is round too”.
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Copy that. Looks like it’s still the same 9mm hex nut as the older hacks, so no change as far as I can tell.
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My bike is in the shop with the pedals on it. I’m hoping I can do the conversion Thursday or Friday and then go for a first ride this weekend.
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Yes, apologies to all for the false alarm. The combination of the difficulty of seeing in the hole and a slightly too thick hex socket confused me. I bought a different hex socket and everything worked. Thanks Chad for noticing that.
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Did you just reuse the bolts and nuts from the CXR pedals, but on the favero spindle? Any threadlock etc required for you?
Thanks so much for the info!
I haven’t used any thread lock but I’ll see if it loosens up with use.
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I use SPDs on road - the shimano single sided type with a platform around them - and with n+1 bike on the way that can’t take a cheap L crank meter from stages or 4iii as I use on my current bike, I am likely to move to an assioma uno for more flexibility long term.
This hack looks like it will save the much bigger expense and headache of fitting and dialing in new shoes which I’d like to avoid as I am very happy with my XC7 shoes.
I’m wondering if the following xpedo pedal would also work for this hack as it’s lighter than the baldwin but also has larger platform and costs less:
I’ve done mine now. First real rides will be this weekend. The pedal part was extremely easy. Less than 5 minutes per pedal.
The dremel surgery on my shoe was a bit more concerning since it was my first time using one and I was worried about my expensive shoes. Not pretty, but everything seems to work.
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Looking at Xpedo’s website, the axle appears the same and the spec states 3 sealed bearings. The replacement bearing kit in the parts section of the site is commom to these along with the M-Force , CXR and Baldwin. So it would appear that these will work. But there’s always some risk with these hacks, so be prepared for failure! If you have a choice of supplier pick the one with the best returns policy just in case: it should be clear when you see them “in the flesh” whether they will work or not. Hope this helps.
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I see it mentioning the other 3, but where are you seeing it mention it’s common to the TRVS too?
Had a look at the small parts on Xpedo’s site. The bearing kit
states:
“Replacement bearing kit for three sealed bearing design models: M-Force 8, M-Force 4 (2nd gen), CXR, CXR Pro, Baldwin, GFX, GFX Neo, Ambix, THRUST 8, THRUST SL, THRUST NXS, TRVS DUO, TRVS 6”
so I’m guessing that the axle is common - it would make sense from a manufacturing standpoint.
But of course I could be completely wrong!
By the way I share your concern about taking a Dremel to shoes, having had to modify a recently purchased pair of Bonts. I chickened out of the Dremel and resorted to a craft knife and file: doesn’t look as elegant as yours, maybe I should have been braver.
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It was my first time using a Dremel. Definitely not elegant 
I am riding a Neo indoors and I’ve added the Assioma/Xpedo pedals. They track well, but the pedals are consistently reading about 2-5% lower than the Neo. I’m not surprised that they are a little different, but I guess I thought the pedals would be the ones reading higher, not the Neo, simply because I have direct contact with the pedals.
Am I thinking about that wrong? Should the pedals be the one with the lower reading?
I can’t just switch and use power match with the pedals because long term they will be on my gravel bike, not the trainer.
My Assiomas read about 4% lower than my Neo. I set the offset to 3,8% on both pedals and left it at that. As long as it’s in the same ballpark and not overreading I’m happy. But I think it’s pretty shitty that the Assiomas are reading so low. My Quarq is within 2-5W of my Neo consistently.