Thanks for the feedback. Glad to know I’m not alone. My worry is that I’m assuming the Assiomas are low when in fact the Neo is high.
I’m basing my whole world of power meters around my Neo since that is impossible to calibrate. And since I tested the Quarq against it I can say for sure that it’s accurate and will adjust all other PM’s accordingly.
I would advise you to do the same.
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That’s when it’s time for the blue Loctite. 
But if the rubber o-ring works, all good! I’m up to 4,000 miles on my CXR-Assioma hack with zero issues.
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I can confirm that the TRVS DUO spindle seems to work subject to the same concerns raised in this thread that you cannot torque the inner nut down without locking the pedal.
I could not figure out how to transfer the combination washer/oring from the XPEDO axle so I will likely use blue loctite for now. I really like the idea of moving those over and grinding off a fraction of a mm as @Harrisonh outlined to get it just right - what is the trick to getting those combo washer/orings off the xpedo axles? Tried using a crescent wrench the width of the washer with a light tap but didn’t want to damage it if there was a better way to do it.
As for end caps, I just used the xpedo end caps and they were fine.
Also I have XC-7 shoes and no clearance problems at all - even at max rotation when clipping out - much like the XC-9 photo shown a couple days ago, so that was good news!
My take on the pros/cons vs. other XPEDO options -
The TRVS DUO pedal is a bit lighter than Baldwin, same weight as CXR, and less expensive then the other two by about $20. It has more support to the sides of the SPD cleats compared to CXR, but not the front/rear support that Baldwin has. It was not that clear to me in the product photos but none of the reverse side platform engages with your shoe. This has me thinking I should just get out the dremel and cut these platforms off, leaving only the portion supporting the SPD platform itself. Dumping that weight would make it both the lightest and cheapest of all the options while still having some extra side support. The only downside I can think of on this is that clipping in might be slightly trickier without having the larger pedal body to flip with your foot?
The other problem is that everything around these pedals is out of stock nearly everywhere - was lucky to find the assiomas in stock with no markup shipped from some store in Italy.
I also found the clip in/out mechanism to be excellent with my existing Shimano SPD cleats - was worried based on some reviews, but it seems great.
So generally good - but… the bigger issue I’m seeing is that the Assioma L-only is consistently measuring 10W lower than my Stages L-only - same 10W +/- 1 W offset at all powers from 100-500W looking at durations from 20 sec to 20 mins. This is sort of good that it’s an easy value to work with, but a bit disappointing in that I only see a % slope that I can apply in the Favero app - which would only be accurate for one power if I use it to correct this gap. Going to start another thread for this. They do track the stages perfectly - I just hope to find some way to manage this offset to be transparent as I start using them against years of data from my Stages meter.
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I picked up some Baldwins, now I just need Assioma to start shipping the spindles again. Luckily I have a lot of time until spring when I’ll be using it, but I’d rather buy just the spindle and save $100. Anyone on their newsletter hear about when they might start shipping again?
When I first converted mine back in February or so I often rode my Neo2 with the Assioma’s attached. I collected the data for comparison purposes and ran it through DCR’s analyzer tool. The Assioma’s were consistently just under 2% higher than the Neo with the greatest disparity at the 15sec and 30 sec intervals (around 2.5% higher) but leveled off between 1 and 2mins.
The results were so consistent that I finally stopped collecting it. The pedals now mainly live on my gravel bike although they do make an occasional appearance on my road bike. Now the only time they get put on the Neo2 is for my ramp tests so about every 4 weeks or so.
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For those interested in using the seal, when i set mine up several months ago i used sandpaper to reduce the thickness of this piece shown in the pictures. It took some patience and test fitting but i was able to get each piece to the correct thickness allowing me to torque down the nut and use the seal/ retainer. As you can see the thickness is just a little less than a penny.
If I understand you correctly, you sanded down the inner seal that came on the assioma axle?
It sounded like someone earlier in this thread removed the xpedo combination oring and seal and used it on the assioma axle - which also required some sanding. I would prefer that solution to preserve the assioma seal for future use with their pedals, but I’m not sure of the best way to remove the xpedo seal.
You can purchase a rebuild set with new bearings and the seal for around $40 if needed in the future FYI.
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I found the spindles in stock on bike24.com - and it looks like they have more left pedal axles in stock. They delivered to be me in Canada (from Germany) so I imagine they deliver to a bunch of other countries.
Hi everyone, figured I’ll just post here instead of starting a new thread.
I disassembled my pedal (to show a friend how I did it), and when I assemble the right side pedal, I used the wrong torque wrench that doesn’t click when using it counterclockwise. As a result, I was torquing it down quite heavily for a couple times until I realized there’s no way this is less than 10Nm, freaked out, loosened it and used the correct torque wrench.
My question is, does my Left/Right balance graph here look normal or does it skew heavily towards the Left side? I know the overall % seems fine, but in the graph, I noticed the Left pedal reached 20L (Whatever that means) quite often but the Right side hovers around 10R.
Did I break the right side pedal? I didn’t hear any cracks etc, the pod looks fine, maybe it’s just me being paranoid but figured it wouldn’t hurt to ask here.
Thanks in advance!
Assiomas don’t transfer L/R through Bluetooth so that’s just an imaginary text. If you aren’t using ANT+ through your computer.
Right, of course. This graph is my Wahoo App screenshot though, it’s ANT+ so definitely not imaginary
If you’re worried about 52/48 balance that is completely normal. The other values I have no idea what they’re supposed to mean but 52/48 is normal.
Assiomas will do L/R balance over bluetooth with compatible apps if you’re on firmware newer than late 2018.
New Favero Assioma Firmware Adds Full Zwift Bluetooth Smart Compatibility, Additional Features
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Yeah but there aren’t a plethora of apps that support this. Does TR even?
I finally managed to get out for a ride since doing the conversion. I did it with just a spare axle and charging clip, which saved me a good chunk of cash. So far so good, power figures seem about right (my first PM so no frame of reference though). I’ll wait and see if thread lock is needed after a couple more rides.
Nice, I got mine done over the weekend. I only got the axle too, rather than the whole pedal. Power numbers seem fine.
I doubt I will need any threadlock.
Really, really important data point…
CXR pedals work spot on as beer bottle openers. Important discovery during a time of great need this past weekend.
And no, I did not record the power of said operation.
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I’m trying to figure out if the Bontrager Comp MTB Pedal Set works for this since I can’t find the Xpedo pedals in stock around me. All Bontrager’s spec says about the bearing type is that it’s sealed.
Has anyone tried or knows if the conversion will work with these?
More info about the pedals here.