Thanks for this info! Does the Issi Flash tighten fully and still spin easily when swapped? Same for the Issi Trail? It looks like it fits really well. In relation to the pedal itself, does it clip in and release smoothly and easily? Any issues with your shoes? It looks like the pedal itself provides quite a bit of space between the inside of the pedal and the Assioma power unit. Are you happy with the Issi mod overall? Thanks!
Like the Xpedo (and the Assioma body on the power spindle) there is a bit of play with the nut tight. The end cap is what removes the final bit of play. Both versions of the iSSi (Flash and Trail) spin well. No binding like the CXR can have. The seal from the Assioma spindle fits up nice against the iSSi body. I personally find it much easier to clip into (it’s very much like clipping into a Shimano or SRM pedal). I’ve always found Xpedo more difficult to clip into with the rougher and more angular shapes. Did another trainer ride with them today and am glad to have gone with the iSSI.
The shoe really needs to angle in from the side width as it approaches the sole to clear the power pod. This is on the CXR body but it’s similar with the iSSi. The shoes are the Shimano RX8 which are fairly minimal. Have some Pearl Izumi X-Pros and they would need to be trimmed a bit to clear. You won’t want any shoe contact with the power pod.
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The Nukeproof pedals DO NOT work. They are too wide. Soon as I took out the axle I could tell it was a lot longer. Wasn’t even close.
Now to decide if I want to just use my Issi pedals…or get some of the Baldwins for the fat bike. Based on experiences here, it sounds like the issi are a better option for getting in and out of.
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With plaform around the Baldwin, it might not be so bad? The iSSi clips just feel “smoother” to get into.
I just fitted the M-Force 8 bodies to the Assioma spindle. I tried moving the O-ring washer near the crank from the M-Force 8 to power spindle but after tightening the axle nut, the pedal body would bind. So I just went with the original Assioma (non-O-ring) washer and it seemed to work well; little play and spins well at 9Nm.
The Assioma washer is just a little thinner and lower profile than the M-Force 8 washer with the O-ring, so I am not surprised it makes a difference.
I had to use an adjustable wrench (mini vise) and a block of wood to bang out the M-Force 8 O-ring washeer. The Assioma spindle appears to not be tapered like the M-Force 8 spindle which has a friction fit.
BTW the Assioma original was something like 308g and the new Frankenstein weighed 327g , both with one crank spacer washer per pedal.
Not had it on the road yet, but I think it will work great. This is brand new Assioma and a nearly new M-force 8.
I have the RX-8 shoes with the Xpedo cleats, but haven’t fitted/trimmed them yet for the spindle blob.
Let me know if anyone sees a problem with using the Assioma spacer/washer with the M-force 8 body. GPLama video used the original Assioma washer but suggested an improvement to swap and use the O-ring, but I didn’t see he tried it.
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BTW - thanks to all for the tips and videos on swapping pedal bodies… this is going to be so good for gravel! I bought a second Duo for gravel because I (surprisingly) decided I really like the road pedals on my road bike after 25+ years on SPD.
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I did 100% everything you’ve done here today, same result with the o-ring so I kept the thinner one in place… Same weights too, to the gram I believe! I’ll edit the video up in the next day and get it on YouTube.
btw - These with the M-Force 8 are now lighter than the SRM X-Power SPD 
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I had a similar issue with my conversion yesterday. I am using a brand new Favero and brand new XPEDO CXR.
I replaced the FAVERO pedal with the CXR following the schematic below. The parts in RED SOLID LINE (Pedal and End cap) were replaced with the XPEDO equivalent. The bearings shown in dotted line are part of the pedal assembly, hence there were also replaced as I changed the pedals.
The main issue I am having is with the yellow boxed items. I took the Oil retainer from the FAVERO and installed it with the XPEDO pedal body. When I tried tightening the M6 nut, I ended up with the pedal binding before I reached the 9Nm recommended.
Should we not include the oil retainer? or include it but lower the torque?
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Most of us with the CXR used Blue Loctite instead of a 9 Nm tightening torque. Problem solved.
Btw, seriously nice schematic you’ve put up.
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I am going down the Loctite route as well!
Thank you!
PS: I have updated the schematic for future use by others:
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To complete the M-Force 8 conversion story, I trimmed my size 46 RX8 shoes just a bit. I might have gotten away with no trimming, but I figured the pedals are worth more than the shoes.
And to clarify I reused the medial “oil retainer” from the Assioma according to the beautiful alvaroe16 diagram. Everything rode just fine yesterday and power numbers appear reasonable from Strava results on frequented climbs. I am very happy!
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Last time a tried to do the conversion I ordered a single left axle. What is not included when you just order single axle ist the oil retainer! Is the conversion possible without using the oil retainer or is it possible to just order the oil retainer as a single spare part. I know tht it is included in the bearing-kit. But to me is doesn’t make sense to order complete kit when all I need is the retainer!?
@stabby408 Which pedal body are you using? If the CXR, then use the o-ring from the CXR and skip the oil retainer all together.
See here
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Does anyone know if this same hack can be done with either the Time ATAC MTB pedals or the XPRO road pedals?
This seems obvious, but if I do this with my Uno set I can just modify the left and use the right CXR pedal as stock? Or get really odd and leave my Shimano pedal on the right.
Depends (our favorite start to so many answers here)…
The pedal will obviously install and be fine on the right.
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The question that must be answered… is the location of the pedal center between both pedal spindles the same or different?
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Essentially, the left-right spacing (from the shoulder of the pedal spindle threads to the cleat center) may or may not be the same.
- Any difference may be quite small, and could potentially be ignored, but I think it should at least be reviewed to understand what if any delta exists.
- Some might even be handled with the specific cleat lateral placement, or use of pedal spacers.
- And some riders may not be affected by any difference, while others are more sensitive to that lateral placement.
Makes sense, I will measure. Maybe I will keep the left Uno stock, install a Shimano SPD on the right, wear a road shoe left, a mtb shoe right, and hop around on one foot when it’s time for hike a bike.
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I did this but with the M-Force 4 pedals (Uno on the left - I actually just bought a left pedal from Assioma, unmodified M-Force 4 on the right). It has worked fine so far for me with no perceived issues. While I definitely agree with Chad’s points, I personally took the approach of just trying it and seeing if I had an issue, knowing that if I did, this could be an explanation for it worth exploring.
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If you use the XPEDO as your other pedal you’ll be fine. The whole reason for using them is the axle is almost identical, and you are using the same pedal body, so the pedal Q factor will be almost identical. If it has any difference and it actually bothers you, you can shift your cleats slightly side to side to make them the same
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