Question for the mechanics or road 1x enthusiasts please!
I’m thinking of a really basic, low budget, 1x conversion for my 105 R7000 equipped road bike. With a 48T narrow wide front ring such as a Wolf Tooth, and either 11-32 or 11-34 rear cassette.
I have a SS R7000 rear mech, Shimano quote capacity on that as 35, low sprocket max 30T. I don’t want to buy the the GS R7000 rear mech, which offers capacity 39, low sprocket max 34T.
I’m thinking: 1) Rear mech capacity shouldn’t be a problem because the ‘slackest’ combination in such a 1x setup would be 48-32 (or 48-34). 2) Clearance for the 32 or 34 sprocket might be an issue - but in that case, a Wolf Tooth road link should create the clearance and would be cheaper than a new GS rear mech.
Please point out the no doubt numerous flaws in this reasoning…
I have an Allez Sprint x1 with a SRAM Road Force drivetrain. Have you looked into this? It runs a 10-32 with the short derailer. There are two other longer derailer lengths if you need bigger cogs.
I think trying to keep stuff in the family is worth the lack of headaches in the long run from kit bashing a setup.
With 1x, the total capacity doesn’t really matter like it does in 2x, just the difference between smallest and largest cog. So an SS RD has 35T and GS RD has 39T
1x (48-48)+(36-11) = 35T
2x (50-34)+(36-11)=41T
So it really just matters how far the cage can swing to gather up the chain. I think 11-32t with the SS should work fine even though its rated at 30T with the right chain length. The GS can probably do 36t easy - that’s $49. I’d do a proper 105 GS or RD-RX810 over the Wolflink for lateral rigidity.
Also, note that 11sp 11-34t cassette is a MTB cassette, you need to run the spacer on a 11sp road rear hub.
You need a new chain likely, so get a 12sp chain and the right ring for the 12sp chain. The 12sp chain is made to swing side to side more and will work better than the 11sp with the right ring. If you’re thinking about the bigger cassette, do that upfront so you don’t need to buy two chains.
Keep in mind that parts are in short supply, so make sure you can get them first. Don’t buy anything on backorder.
I have a TT 1x setup with narrow-wide 58T chainring and SS Ultegra rear mech (no clutch) with an 11-32 cassette. No issues with clearance or chain slack and have never dropped a chain.
I ran a poor man’s 1x before upgrading to a “real” 1x system (SRAM Force 1x group):
Removed FD and cabling to the shifter
Installed a 42T narrow wide front ring - converted my existing 2x crank with spacers from Praxis.
Installed a chain catcher
It worked well outside of really rough gravel where I experienced a few chain drops.
Note on the 42T ring: I live a really mountainous area of the country and do not race road. A 42 up front and 11/36 in the back was pretty reasonable for all but the steepest climbs and fastest group rides.
Don’t run that one in particular, because you can’t flip up the cover. You should be fine without a clutched RD and NW ring… how often does your chain fall off now with 2x - never? The chainguide is enough (or just use the FD).
It’s called repeated severe bumps while offroading with longer cage (larger range) RDs. 1x road was originally sold for CX/Gravel/Adventure. The features are there to differentiate it from 2x more so than actual need for road. 1x is just 2x without the other ring and FD. The only time you drop a chain 2x is when shifting. A chainkeeper or NW ring will do the same for 1x. For road, you’re better off with the keeper for when you take your rear wheel off.
The clutch is pretty annoying if you can avoid it.
What i have:
R8000 derailleur, with the wolftooth Roadlink DM
Shimano 105 shifters
Tiagra crank
Absolute black 46T oval chainring
Shimano 11-40 cassette
The SS R7000 derailleur will work on that bigger 11-34 cassette with the Roadlink. I think 11-36 and 11-40 even work in a 1x setup
Great to know, thanks. What front ring is that? And do you just mount it on the crankset in the big ring position and find the chain line is good, or any fiddling with spacers, offset etc? Cheers
I just converted my gravel/road bike to a 1x. It had a 44T chainring, and a 11-34 cassette. I took it on a group ride with a handful of road riders, and realized I needed a bigger chainring. I will have a 48T chainring switched out today. My old 2x had a 46T big ring, which was fine, but I wanted more top end speed.
I also took my bike on a solo gravel ride last weekend, and found myself spending too much time in the biggest gear, so I feel confident in the switch to a bigger chainring. Even on some of the longer climbs later in my ride, I found myself not really needing the easiest gear.
I’ll find out soon when I get back out on a group ride.
I am considering going 1x on my road bike. I was looking at a 46t chainring up front, with a 10-36 cassette out back. I would be curious if anyone has this combo on their road bike, and if so, how well it works.
I have 1x on my gravel rig, and really want this simplicity on my road bike. I will never race it, and I’m not worried about the jumps between gears that some folks are worried about. I would like a fair balance of top end speed and slight climbing ability, but I don’t have any long sustained climbs near me to worry about.
Well, the cheapest way to convert is defiantly, switch to a “narrow wide” chainring.
for my bike, I bought a new Crank / 50t Chainring form Aliexpress.
fitted with
Sram Force 1 Shifter
Sram Red 22 Rear Mech
The down side?
There is one cog (the 5th) in the rear can’t be use, chain will always skip.
and there is a chance that the chain will come off in the largest cog.
but my local area is mostly flat, so i never really use that anyway.
Pic below
