It’s a proper disc construction I.e not a carbon fairing on a rim. Makes the proper disc noise when you are hooping along.
Had it a couple months, ridden a handful of times with no issues. I’ll take a side on pic if you like too - wiggles website is pretty sparse on details
Nice, thanks! It seems to be the best budget disc wheel available.
Wow. All these discussions about how and when discs help aero are sort of moot, this one is worth a buy for the looks (and presumably sound) alone!
OK, I placed an order for the WheelBuilder AeroJacket Disc cover. I don’t use my Shiv a ton, but figured this would be a fair price for a bit of speed the couple of races a year I do with it. I will update with pics and feedback when I get it and work on the assembly.
OK, got the covers installed this weekend.
After some initial review, looking at the Wheelbuilder instructions and the alternate methods here and elsewhere, I decided to do the drive side cover first, with zip ties on the lower spokes, and then tape on the upper spoke sections.
Then I finished with the non-drive side with just the fasteners initially. They are loose than I’d like, so I jumped right into electrical tape at the edge to rim contact. This made it all more secure and removed any real vibration and wiggle from my ‘bounce’ test on the ground. The inner section of the non-drive side “floats” and does not contact the hub. I considered adding a foam spacer, but just went with the open connection. I am hoping the tape and fastener connection as well as the inherent stiffness of the shape will keep it the proper shape and position in use.
I still think the fasteners are too long in my case. They have a slight gap in nearly all spots and no real tension between the cover sides. I may take them back out, trim them about 3mm and reinstall. Overall, I am pretty pleased for the $125 prices (cover + shipping) and the look.
Edit: Forgot to add the quick install pic. Need to clean the dust off for proper pics outside at some point.
I have never used the fasteners just tape and never had problems. Electrical tape at the rim and some packing tape on the drive side to the spokes. I think the last time I even changed the tape was 2016ish. Probably pull it this week, check the true and then redo the tape. Basically I wouldn’t worry about the fasteners not being snug as many of us don’t even use them, tape works fine.
Good to know. They are fine as the backup if the tape every fails on me. The main issue I have with the gaps is that the fasteners can wiggle a bit and might vibrate. Shorter would hold them in tension between the covers. That or I also considered a little tape over one side to tie it down. Not a deal breaker really, and I plan a quick test ride to see how it all rolls before doing anything else. Just had to grab a crack pipe extension for air and I am set for testing this week.
are you going to leave this as a dedicated disk? looks good, my old one was always a bit loose after install, it was my only wheel so I took the cover off for training. After a ride or two it seemed to settle into a spot and stay there.
If you have it as an extra wheel the tape on the inside is the way to go.
Yeah, I’m leaving this setup with the disc covers all the time. I have spare wheels if needed. But I use this so rarely, it will likely just be shakedown rides for short training sessions to confirm fit and then races.
You did a great job. You gotta be pleased with that!
Thanks so much! Totally inspired by you all and followed your great leads. 
Hi,
How did you manage to apply the electrical tape in a circle? I want to tape my covers but can’t seem to get the tape flat without creases. Nice job btw!
Thanks
I just applied the first inch or so, then held it firm with my thumb while pulling the tape roll with my other hand. A bit of force with a pull at an angle. Small bites and I did have to lift and reapply sometimes around to get a clean curve.
It’s also possible that different tapes will stretch better than others for this use.
Many thanks, I think I need to try some better quality tape!
I have the same disc wheel.
Absolutely fantastic and very hard to beat for someone that doesn’t have unlimited money.
Thought I’d share my experience with the aerojacket -
It was far from plug and play for me - you absolutely need to take the advice shown here and elsewhere to plan on taping it extensively - and plan that you may have to do quite a bit more to make them work - but you can almost certainly find a way to make them work.
The covers have a molded conical angle to them, but on both sides for me, the angle was not enough. I also had to enlarge each center hole a fraction of an inch so the cover cleared the hubs such that the first point of contact was on the spokes, which helps reduce warp.
In my case, I first taped the drive side to the spokes with packing tape. I like what Chad did with the zip ties - for me, however, the riskiest area looked like the RD, so I ended up taping halfway out as well. This got the drive side sufficiently flat and avoided any localized bulges. I then taped it down with electrical tape and after 3 rides including some use of the big cog on the rear cassette on a climby course, no scratches yet.
The non-drive-side was MUCH more problematic for me. I probably tried mounting it 5 times with many techniques. The cone angle just never sat flat enough for me to get more than 1 mm of chainstay clearance on a Cervelo P3 - and some of the install iterations ended up with a bulge that would not clear because angle wasn’t right. I tried all different ways to spread the gap evenly across the wheel, but had no confidence in the clearance.
Finally, I just decided to cut a slit from the center hole to the top of the tire valve opening and allow a few mm of overlap to “tighten” and increase the effective cone angle. This was absolutely worth doing. It made the cover fit perfect, custom to my wheel’s dimensions, and the overlap section is ultra-thin, and barely visible with electrical tape over it. I also enlarged the valve opening a bit after doing this using a dremel sanding drum, which is very fast and easy if you have one.
The biggest problem with this approach is that not all of the fastener holes will line up anymore, depending on how much you have to draw it in. I could still get 5 of them on, but the last 3 I could not. I’m also taping it down anyway, but I like having the security of some backup screws.
Both sets of plastic clips I got were also far too long - and they are a pain to modify, and very difficult to take apart as well - so I just got much nicer flush aluminum ones at the hardware store that look like a threaded rivet on one side and similar wide flat screwhead on the other. I painted them black, but then realized electrical tape is so hard to see against the cover, and I had empty holes anyway, so I just covered each screw head and empty hole with a piece of tape. Looks fantastic from 3 feet away.
My take - in hindsight, I would have done it as a DIY project and gotten an even cleaner result with no misaligned screw holes, and maybe would have stuck to just 2-4 of them largely as a backup security to the tape. But some people have better luck out of the box.
If I ordered again, I would not have any holes put in for fasteners, nor would I buy extra fasteners.
The owner recognized this was a pain and partially comped the cost back to me - I felt it was fair that he get covered for the cost of the sheet stock where at least the outer diameter was done (and shipping) as I could still make them work with a lot of effort, so I’d say I still ended up a satisfied customer - just know what you might be getting into 
A guy had a great DIY thread on slowtwitch and of course people with money mocked him for “saving $50 with 1.5 hours of time and they’ll just buy a cover…” - what they failed to recognize is that many of them will just have a more expensive DIY modification project that won’t look nearly as good as what he made.
After cutting the cone slit, he set the angle precisely for his wheel, then sealed the edge perfectly with cement and a backing piece inside. Really impressive DIYs out there. Maybe I’ll do that in the offseason, but I don’t think it’s necessary at all. If you put your own graphics on the wheel, just overlap that seam with tape/graphics. And I’ll probably decide to slit the drive side cover as well, and I bet I’ll double my clearance to the rear derailleur when I do.
I’m also going to be on the lookout for an inexpensive rear wheel that I can just setup with a cover full time, and keep my nice 65 aero wheel pair available for road use or TT non-disc use.
Now the big question - does it work? Well, I have not done strict aero testing on known courses yet, but I seem to be rolling at least a fraction of a mph faster…
I also just won our state 4/5 40k TT with my heavily modified pair by exactly one minute - over a competitor who did not run his real disc - and we were on a course with a few mph of cross winds both outbound and returning… which as I understand it is pretty much the condition where a disc can really excel. Maybe I had the win either way, but the fake disc at least made me more confident! I’ll get a better sense for sure when I hit our regular club TT in the next couple weeks.
Now that you have over a year with this wheel… can you say you still like it? I am really debating about getting one of these!
