Hi there. I’m new to TR but love it. I have a wahoo smart trainer and a stage 2 power meter. The problem is my cadence is always reading 255 RPMs which is not correct. Anyone have answers on a fix?
Maybe you haven’t connected a cadence sensor. I’d connect the stages as both a power and cadence sensor. Then to keep the trainer resistance linked to that, turn on powermatch on the wahoo. (Some people have issues with powermatch, but I’d see if it works for you first).
I’ve been using a wahoo kickr core in ERG mode for about 6weeks and the same has happened to me twice now - tr app displays 255rpm and seems the only fix is to end workout. Tho it displays 255rpm I found it does not affect erg mode so I can continue my workout as usual and disregard cadence displayed on my android screen. I just assumed it’s a Bluetooth glitch I guess.
If it’s picking up cadence from the trainer maybe the wheel circumference is wrong? The value might be set to the wheel diameter and not the circumference. As a rough calculation 255/π (255/3.14159) ~= 81rpm which sounds about right.
Wheel circumference will have no impact on the trainer measured cadence.
The trainer cadence is simply looking for “pulses” and “drops” in power and uses that to estimate the cadence. It’s the reason it is actually fallible in some cases, when people have a particularly smooth power delivery and/or a light power level.
Thanks for the answer…unfortunately I think it’s something else. When riding on TR, I also turn on my garmin 1030 bike computer. It picks up the cadence flawlessly….but TR on an ipad does not. I’m still searching for a possible fix.
Maybe you’re correct. I ride with my garmin 1030 bike computer while doing TR and the cadence on the garmin is perfect. On TR (on the ipad) it is registering 255. Any ideas on how to fix are appreciated.
I would ping TR support on this. I think the info they can see could pinpoint if my hunch is correct.
The only suggestions I have to try and fix this on your iPad would be to delete the TR app and all of the related data, and then re-download it. Also see if your devices are registered in your list of Bluetooth devices, if so, I would remove them. I would do all of this in this order:
Delete TR app and its data
Remove your trainer, heart rate monitor, cadence, etc. from the list of BlueTooth devices on your iPad
Power off your iPad. Wait 30 seconds, power it back on - this is being overly cautious
Re-download the TR app, and set everything back up
You can very easily set it up so TR gets the cadence from a Stages power meter but use the power from the Kickr. That’s exactly what I do. It is just a checkbox on the Stages sensor in TR that says cadence-only.
Seems to be reporting the maximum value for an unsigned integer (1 byte), which as you say is 255 Decimal (FF hex), it is probably not ‘seeing’ the cadence reading at all.
Are you using bluetooth or ant+? With bluetooth, you cannonly receive the signal with one device, so if its linked to the garmin, the TR app won’t see anything.
Also check which of your two power sources (wahoo and stages) is connected to TR for power and cadence.
I’ve been having similar issues as the original poster. Although a Garmin V2 cadence sensor in this particular instance connected via bluetooth to TR running on an iPad. Using a Saris H3.
For the last month or so, at least 1x per workout, I’ll get a random spike that maxes exactly at 255 for cadence. The rest of the cadence data for the workout seems pretty expected beyond these occasional spikes.
Have already contacted TR support to work through the issue, but curious if anyone has experienced this?
Is it the magnet type of cadence sensor? They are prone to spikes from hovering on the pedals etc. If you are always pedalling forwards it not too bad but occasionally right on the magnet folk will naturally do something which causes the magnet to pass forward and then instantly back.
I don’t know the underlying technology, but it’s the newer style Garmin cadence sensor that transmits both ANT and Bluetooth. The funny part is that I’ve been using this setup for a while and never had any issues until about 3 weeks ago. Already replaced the battery with a new one as step #1.
Edit, it’s the newer style ‘Cadence Sensor 2’ that mounts directly to the crank arm.
I only use my newer type cadence sensor (the type that you put on the crank only) on the commuter and touch wood it has not spiked but with a bit of interference I wouldn’t be surprised if it did.