Wow that’s tiny - try here. It’s the paragraph under the graph:
2 Likes
I would probably buy force after reading that article.
I currently run 2 rival chains and 1 force chain. They’d all still showing zero wear and I can’t tell the difference when I rotate through chains.
It’s odd to me that SRAM doesn’t seem to advertise that they have a different coating to justify the different cost. But looks like westernbikeworks (same as BTD?) has the force chains for the same price as the rival anyway. Thanks guys!
$30 Force flattop chains - https://bikecloset.com/product/sram-force-axs-d1-12-speed-chain-114-link/?srsltid=AfmBOoqTwa_KY-F3UJjJX-KE8WbxM8cicB_7PdvkmhZuGTB4fkGlwJF2
1 Like
I can attest to this. I rode 1000km on a GX chain and it was 1% worn. I was chocked…
It also started to rust fast as hell.
Just changed to X01 and been riding it in salt and wet weather, close to zero rust.
1 Like
Wow that’s a crazy difference! Shimano seem similar though, the 105 certainly rust easily.
Okay guys, I did not see what I am looking for so figured I would ask this. I want to start off, I have been waxing for about 3 seasons now and I recently moved to the full silca setup (literally their cooker, wax, cleaner etc).
I will be the first to say it, I hate waxing and if there was not so much evidence of it being superior I would flat out not do it. I loved the days of gold rock and roll lube at the beginning of the week and wiped clean.
Why do I not like waxing - I think the process is not fun, just me and then you have to worry about link issues, I have had the 11-tooth cassette after many waxes get clogged and then the bike would not go down in it during sprints etc. I know I know I’m whining.
So here is my question - I have a new bike… The new bike is white (very white)… when I wax a new chain, the flying wax boogers are just making the bike so messy for no good reason. I am on the hunt on how to de-booger the chain after I wax (without killing performance) it so I don’t have to spend the next 3-rides cleaning everything on the drive side of the bike.
If the answer is, tough luck let it be dirty - then so be it. My first thought was just running a new waxed chain through a dry/empty park CM-5.3.
First, I wan to say my experience with wax is the opposite of yours.
To solve the issue you mention:
Someone here said he uses a pulley wheel fixed against something and runs the waxed chain on it. Sounds good to me.
IME large pieces of wax are caused by leaving the chain cooling for to long. I prefer to pull it out when hot. I know some say letting it cool down makes the wax last longer. That is not what I’ve experienced.
On another forum people shared their experience running the still warm chain throw a cloth and they liked the results.
I have to say silca is the best Ive experienced. Very little flaking.
2 Likes
Very odd. Did you use the silca chain stripper? Do you pull the chain at 160 degrees so it’s not caked with wax?
You can also drop the cassette in near-boiling water every once in a while to melt off any wax.
1 Like
This happens, my resolve is to accept it, however, I do pour boling water over the cassette from a kettle on bike wash day to remove wax build up on the cassette. It becomes a daning act though to angle the wheel so as not to drown the rim et al in excess hot waxy water, I dont want to remove cassette every time nor do i want to dunk the cassette into a bowl of water (bearings, grease etc).
The kettle pour works for me.
1 Like
I am following Silca’s instructions to a T and using all of their products and am not near max dip recommendations or anything like that (It has always been this way).
The Silca pot is set to 75*C which is the lowest it can go.
I think it just might be part of the deal of waxing. I can try the park tool to try and knock off some of the big chunks but am still open to all opinions on this!
For the wax build up on the cassette, I just use a small flat head glass repair screwdriver (it fits right between the cogs) and quickly scrape the wax out… I just have to remember to do it a few times a year.
1 Like
found the problem
2 Likes
I somehow missed this response, but you have great reasoning.
After I dip the chain I literally leave it for hours to cool or overnight when it is completely cooled/hardened. I can easily throw it on hot and put a rag on it (this is a great test).
1 Like
I’d be interested to see what happens doing the above. I have tried both, and a chain totally covered in set wax just tends to end with more wax going everywhere IMO.
I also am highly suspicious of the factory lube ‘converter’ block, and I bet that will lead to gummier wax…
1 Like
Sorry, I do NOT use the stripchip setup but my process is;
- Silca chain stripper in a mason jar shook for 1-3 mins
- cleaning the chain with hot water
- Dipping chain in Silca Secret Chain Blend in a Silca cooker at 75*
- Letting chain completely harden/cool overnight.
- Install on bike
I am now going to change #4 to instantly put on bike and wipe with rag to see if it reduce’s wax boogers.
Between 4 and 5, I break the links by rolling it over a dowel on both sides and the vast majority of the dry wax comes off during this process. I then install, and run it through the cassette and use a metal brush to get the rest off. I never have any build up following this method
2 Likes
I set a timer for 5 minutes after pulling chain from wax and put on bike after that, wax is still a bit pliable but not too hot to touch. Much easier than waiting for it to fully dry
1 Like
Yeah, please do let the chain cool/drip excess for 5 minutes or so.
75 degrees is still pretty hot to handle, plus it would drip hot wax all over.
Also, much easier and cleaner to run a rag with the chain off the bike.
1 Like
Might just be me, but wipe down out of the pot or even later is just not effective at removing excess wax. I’ve used Brillo pads, scotch brite, microfiber, rags, and don’t really see any residual wax coming off. The wax cools really fast. Hang it, let dry for a few hours, then I use my pulley wheel on a giant nail, run the chain back and forth several times, flip it and repeat. I would wonder if installation in 5-10 minutes is good or bad? It may displace wax from important places. Ride it and wipe off the flakes AFTERWARDS- once usually does it.
I had the same thought. While pliable it could squish out of pin/rollers. Same reasoning as letting drip wax set for hours while the solvent evaporates
2 Likes