Ok. I am probably not able to close it by hands yet. But that might be my hands (similar problem to max power output 
)
Like @MikeMckinney above I avoid the doubt with this and use the Connex Quick links. Really easy once you get used to them and also means I can get the chain off in 10 seconds when the bike deep clean. I accept you can clean round it, but makes it a lot easier in my opinion.
As aside, I am using Smoove and having a good time with it. I live in the north of Scotland and I’m never really guaranteed a dry ride or a clean one with farm and forestry traffic, so I didn’t really want to go the whole hog of chain waxing and a chain only lasting one ride. I did the Oz Cycle three stage deep clean and when I need to clean it I use boiling water and a wipe to remove any stubborn bits. I’ve found how you apply the Smoove is key - it’s really easy to apply too much, so I put a small drop on every link starting from the Connex chain link whilst running the chain backwards. Worth a go for those in damp climates.
I haven’t tried the Connex links. Anecdotally, they don’t seem any better than other reusable links in that I’ve read others who’ve dropped, lost, or broken the link… and others who get 10k miles on one. So, hit or miss. In the end, as long as everyone is safe, there are plenty of good, safely reusable options. I think it prudent to swap any of them periodically given how critical it could be.
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Kurt, virtually every source on chain waxing recommends the Connex links because they can be reused over and over, until they become worn themselves. I’ve been waxing for over three years now and wouldnt go back to traditional lubes.
Thanks! I’ve been using (and reusing) the KMC links for my waxing lifetime (going on two years). Once I burn through my current stock of those, I may try the Connex.
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Has anyone had success using an ultrasonic to clean factory grease off a new chain?
Yes - but I cheat and have my LBS do it for me when I get new chains 
The above works really well: I get a new chain, cleaned completely of factor grease, and cut to the right size. The one upgrade I’m thinking of asking my LBS to offer is to pre-wax the chain using its ultrasonic cleaner, to really get the wax into all the nooks and crannies of the chain.
Never used ultrasonic cleaner, but I’ve followed the Zen master guide for six new factory chains and most are degreased after three soaks in mineral spirits.
Hello readers of this thread.
After much waiting and anticipation I thought I would share my experience as I have waxed my first 2 chains for 2 different bikes.
I first started by cleaning and waxing 2 brand new chains.
As I didn’t want to break the current chains on my bikes I just cleaned the entire new chains and didn’t cut them to size first.
I do not have an ultrasonic cleaner (and am trying to avoid buying one as I don’t think I will use it very often). So to clean the chains I submerged them separately in mineral spirits (MS). Shook them each for a while, and let them sit for a while (maybe an hour). I then drained off the mineral spirits through a coffee filter to reuse. I was surprised how the MS didn’t get very dirty. It got very slightly dirty but not much. I am not sure if my assumption is correct or not but the coffee filter seemed to get clogged as I drained the MS through it (although it was not visibly clogged). I wonder if this is because grease, not really visible, clogged the filter?
I did this only a total of 3 times as it was clear after than, and did drain through the coffee filter better as well.
I was prepared for 6-8 MS baths as that is what is says in this thread at the beginning.
I am in Canada and I cannot find denatured alcohol or methylated spirits so I used 99% isopropyl alcohol and did 2 baths per chain. I also recycled this as I may use it for the first bath of subsequent chain cleanings.
I then proceeded to wax the chains in 100% paraffin wax (came in small bricks) from Canadian tire. I just ordered some ptfe powder and will add this to my crockpot once I get it. Let chains cool, then broke up the links.
I then moved to cleaning the bike. I broke the chains on the bike and put them aside for now. 1 is garbage and the other I still have to clean.
I cleaned the cassette on the bike with simple green. I then removed the cassette and cleaned it further with simple green. I removed the jockey wheels and wiped the outer surfaces down first with simple green and then isopropyl alcohol (not relevant but I think I may need new jockey wheels) I then reassembled the rear derallieur putting the jockey wheels back in (there was some nasty caked on grease and hair on the inner surfaces of the metal frame which sandwiches the jockey wheels, yuck).
I then cleaned the chain rings with scrub brush and simple green and cleaned the inner surfaces of the front derailleur that touch/rub against the chain to move it.
I then proceeded to install the new chain, after cutting it to the right length. A little tricky and didn’t feed it through the rear derailleur correctly first, but got it eventually.
The chain didn’t seem to fit correctly initially around the jockey wheels and I thought I mixed up which was the upper and which is the lower. However, after wiggling the derailleur around a bit manually it seemed to fit OK (a little unnerving at first).
I have since done 2 trainer rides and all seems OK. I can’t say it is any louder or quieter yet.
I hope to finish off my second bike this week without any surprises.
Looking forward to less/no guck and grease and being afraid to touch my chain.
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Has anyone over heated there speed wax? I left the wax in the crock pot for like 18 hours with it on then waxed my chains. seems to be a tad louder then normal
I did that a week ago. Chain was in there about 18 hrs as I forgot to set the timer and got distracted by kids. Haven’t run that chain yet, so we’ll see. I waxed another chain after and didn’t seem to affect the wax.
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Has anybody had any lick waxing the Sram 12 speed flat top chain. I heard/read somewhere that due to the tighter tolerances of the new chain that the wax does not get in-between the components as desired etc.??
What are people doing to clean up wax buildup on the drive train, specifically the cassette? I know it’s dry and I could probably dental tool it out, but I’m not sure if there is a better way.
I’ve had good luck with a cassette brush on the rear cassette while using a pancake compressor / air gun to blow away the wax the brush dislodges
Outdoors bike? I don’t worry about it. A scrubby brush and soapy water whenever I bother to wash the bike keeps it clean. I’m sure it misses some flakes, but they’re practically invisible anyway.
Indoors… blargh, the floor around my trainer has zillions of little wax flakes. But the cassette? Not worried about it.
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When mine gets bad enough to annoy me I find it easier to just remove the cassette and give a scrubbing with a stiff nylon brush and Naphtha. It cuts right through the wax build up and dries almost instantly. Normally I’ll do this when swapping chains since I have the bike up on the repair stand and chain off anyway.
This thread has taught me that people have some dirty ass bikes.
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So, about a month and a half, and maybe 1400 kms into this. All great, except that on one ride, I had about a half hour of rain. Chain was dry by the end of the ride, but a week or so later, I see small amounts of rust on the inner plates.
What do you guys do after a rain ride? And, is this chain toast, or can I get rid of the rust with mineral spirits. Sadly, this is a brand new chain.
I always replace a chain with a pre waxed one straight away, wash in paraffin then hang to dry ready for my next application. The rust will disappear after a few waxings hopefully and to all intents and purposes shouldn’t affect the chains strength.
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Wash in paraffin? Didn’t get that. Did you mean soak in wax?
Do you wash in mineral spirits before re waxing?