Hey guys…
I’m building an Argon e117 tt bike and have ordered various r8060 di2 parts… is it plug and play? Hoping to buy the individual parts new but from different retailers. Has anyone done this and just plugged in and away you go?
I know it would be better to use a bike shop but I’m enjoying the challenge and want to be able to fully service the bike myself going forward 
Thanks for any help…
Tom
Yes. They’ll all speak to each other without hassle. Make sure you buy the DN-110 battery though…
If you’re in the UK wiggle will price match so possibly easier than buying from each whilst still giving a years return policy. If you don’t do it before Tuesday (it’s on a different laptop) I’ll post up my research on the cheapest retailer for each bit and dura ace vs ultegra etc. from about 6 six ago. I’d also look at the full groupset offers or upgrade kits I think it was only cheaper for me as I had a spare rear derailleur. Merlin seemed cheapest for these
I put Di2 on two bikes and attention to detail is super important. As far as I know, no bike shop is going to spend as much time as I did taping, wrapping in foam, and heat-shrinking parts. A Di2 install is perma, while cables are not, so approach the installation with that in mind. Also, I decided to put the internal junction box in the downtube on my CAAD12, in a chain-stay on my Stigmata, so make those considerations as well.
I’ve just installed 6870 on my bike and found it easy enough. Exactly like you I wanted to do it myself.
Here’s my experience:
As above buy the new battery for synchro shift
The cables are stupidly expensive so shop around.
I used the bar end junction box so I don’t have anything hanging under my stem.
You’ll need to remove your bottom bracket if doing it all internal. I have a pressfit bb so had to buy another to replace after smacking it out, you also need the tools to remove and re-install the bb.
I bought all the bits on sale over a few months and they all plug and play, then I used the pc software to update the firmware and do the setup.
Make sure you run through the setup to adjust stops etc. The indexing is done through the pc setup initially but can be adjusted through the junction box. You might be able to do on the mobile app with the 8000 series.
be sure not to mix and match 10 speed and 11 speed components… they won’t work together 
otherwise it should be easy to use and install!
Thanks very much for useful info guys!
Awesome Rob thank you v much!
Hi Tommy.
How’d you get on with this? Just about to embark on the same build and would love to know how it went, where you hid everything. What you bought.
Hi
This is interesting to me - I’ve just stripped my frame (2017 Cannondale Synapse Carbon Ultegra Mechanical) due to a nasty RTA that saw me hospitalised. Frame is being checked by carbon frame specialist to ensure no cracks etc.
My initial plan is to rebuild again with mechanical (many components were damaged) but try and go dura-ace where I can afford it, as an ‘upgrade’ strategy.
How easy / difficult would it be for me to install ultegra Di2 on a bike that wasn’t designed for it? I’d probably just buy the full groupset all-in from Wiggle (I’m UK based) as per earlier advice in this thread. I need to buy new handlebars anyway due to them being broken so can go with whatever will be best to suit D12 if required - carbon aero style is what I’d lean towards at the moment …
I have no real idea how Di2 even works so any specific things to ‘check’ or look out for ahead of taking the plunge to ensure brand compatibility?
Thanks in advance
Dave
Hi Craigh,
Are you using the same Frame? Here is a basic list of the parts I used but if you have specific questions or would like photos please let me know. There are some really useful YouTube videos on how to connect it all up but you cant go too wrong. I even mixed the new and old brake/tt bar shifters.
My build went very well, used the;
R671 shifters on bar ends, two buttons each side
R8060 TT brake levers with one button each side
5 Port Junction A which is currently under my stem but will hopefully hide in a bento box
Junction B box which connects front and rear derailleur, battery and Junction A cables, I hid above the bottom bracket.
Bt Dn110 Battery which I fitted in the seatpost using the specific seatpost figment (sold seperately)
Then the standard r8050 front and rear deraillieurs.
Everything worked perfectly with simple plug and play, let me know if I can help more. 
Dave,
In addition to @tommyexmoor’s post, there are a couple of things to watch.
One is that di2 cable is slightly smaller than mechanical cable & housing, which can lead to movement and rattles at the grommets where the cable enters the frame. You can get di2 specific grommets for many frames (haven’t checked for the Synapse), or else just pad this yourself.
The other is access around the bottom bracket area to connect up junction B and the seatpost battery. This is straightforward if you can remove the BB and access the frame spaces. Trying to access it while BB is in place is harder.
The final thing to consider is handlebars and what style of junction A you want with your groupset - under the stem, or in the handlebar ends. Handlebar ends is visually neater, but more complex for wiring, and there can be blocks in handlebars (for rigidity) that make wiring access harder for bar end installation. But as you are getting new bars anyway, you should be able to find some simple di2 options.
Fantastic - thanks for the advice 
Thanks for the reply Tommy.
Yes same frame. e-117, 2020, sigma have a good deal on for it at the moment. Yes i’d love some photos of what you’ve done and how the wiring looks at the front end, im sure that would be really helpfull to me (never done a di2 installation). Also could you show me the battery setpost holder you used? Mcalista has mentioned grommets for the frame. Did you find specific ones for the argon?
Thanks
Craig