The legs have adjustable rubber ends that you can screw out to fit the floor.
I’m using my old tacx front riser.
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I assume that was detailed somewhere on that white papery thing with writing and diagrams on it?
I too am using my taxc vortex riser but that will be going on ebay assuming all stays well with the zumo.
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Possibly, but I watched @GPLama 's excellent video on it and saw it on there.
Yeah, it’s the vortex riser that I’m using too 
Let me know if you find a replacement on ebay as mine is well worn 
Excellent to hear. I’m always looking to hear from other people as N=1 for testing isn’t an ideal sample.
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@GPLama Shane I watched your video while I set mine up and did the calibration/spindown through the app as you described. I have since read that @dcrainmaker did a calibration through TrainerRoad direct but when I try it TR says calibration is not supported. I use a laptop with an Ant+ dongle day to day. I believe I used Bluetooth on initial set up.
I tried to do another spin down recently but couldn’t get it to work, got the start pedalling message but then nothing.
Any comments please?
Reading between the lines I think that there are a few issues calibrating the zumo trainer that elite are working through with 3rd parties.
I think I’ll be avoiding calibrating mine if i can help it!
Just calibrate it from within the elite myetraining app. Worked perfectly for me.
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This is what I tried to do the other day but it wouldn’t work.
So took one for the team last night and did some testing…
Essentially power accuracy not quite as good as i thought as my zumo seems to really under report compared to my favero pedals when the power is over 300w or so. With the big proviso that I haven’t calibrated my trainer since I got it (i was so impressed with the accuracy during pettit that I didn’t think i needed to). The underreporting at higher watts seems to agree with what I’ve seen posted in other corners of the internet too though.
Anyway these were done with 50t front and mid cassette rear…
Zumo as souce and in ERG mode.
I also have the favero data I recorded with a garmin for the above ride, which looked like the next ride.
Favero as power source and zumo in ERG - powermatch OFF
Favero as power source and zumo in ERG - powermatch ON
I also tried the Zumos PML (power meter link) which is supposed to be similar to powermatch but done on the trainer instead of on trainerroad but that didn’t work - i got the same power readings as the first experiment using zumos own power and the power disagreed with the garmin I was using to monitor the favero directly. I’m happy to put this down to user error for now. The whole experience of not being 100% sure where my power readings were coming from was a little disconcerting though - using TR powermatch it is clear whats going on so the PML performance would have to be amazing for me to switch to using that instead of TR powermatch.
ERG mode and TR power match performance with favero as the source seemed perfectly acceptable.
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I also have the Zumo and have been trying out the pml. TR powermatch it is then. I’ll give it a go today.
The PML might be great - I think I just want to understand it more before I trust it.
It might be that some of those random led lights on the trainer tell you if an external power meter is paired or not 
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The lights indicate power on, bt on, ant+ on. They don’t I believe indicate connection to the device.
Hi all - has anyone with issues got anywhere in resolving them?
I’ve set my zumo up today and… it’s not been great.
When run parallel to my 4iii left side meter I’m seeing a regular 30-40w discrepancy lower between the two meters (4iii reads 250w, zumo reads 220w etc). Also, the power from the Zumo seems to be way more sluggish in responsiveness compared to the 4iii, and rarely gets anywhere near the peak figures of the 4iii in short surges.
I had expected both a degree of potential variance between steady powers, and know that even good smart trainers have a level of sluggishness, but this is way outside of what appears to be the normal (and reported by other Zumo users elsewhere).
Any advice/help? I’ve installed the latest firmware, and have done a few spindown calibrations through the Elite app.
Do you know your left right side balance? Could possibly be your putting more power out on your left side?
Hi, this is not resolved yet for me due to the holidays, but Elite have asked me to send them two power files from a routine they asked me to do, which I have. They said they’ll be able to process and get back to me next week.
It could be worth you raising a support ticket too so they see multiple users reporting the same thing.
Can I ask how much noise you get from the chain set/cassette? Mine isn’t ideal so I’m probably losing a few extra Watts there.
Powermatched in TR or Zwift I’m working fine now.
Thanks so much - I’ll raise one with them too. Yours did seem to be a very similar case.
I’m probably losing a few watts from the chainset (hardly sparkling clean but also not utterly filthy), but not 30-40w.
Power match is definitely fine with steady efforts, though it takes quite a long time to notice little surges and respond (this is over bluetooth not ANT+ so aware it can lag). This is on Zwift using the elite power match.
Will test out erg mode in TR tomorrow with power match.
Here is some analysis from using DC Rainmaker’s analysis tool. “Morning Ride” in green, is the power data coming from the Zumo, where as “Zwift”, in purple, is the power data recorded simultaneously on my single sided 4iii crank based PM. This was with Zwift set in SIM mode (adjusting to terrain etc.)
As you can see, there’s a pretty consistent 30-40w gap across all power levels. There is a slight delay in the Zumo picking up surges or changes in power, but that’s broadly within what I’d expected given the differences between power measurement in smart trainers, and a meter installed on the crank.
My drivetrain is pretty recently cleaned (though I’ll admit far from sparkling, and the chain is getting on a bit but not particularly worn). I have never used dual sided so I have no sense what my left/right discrepancy might be, although it would have to be quite a lot to make up 30-40w (especially at lower power levels). I have reason to think the power data given by the 4iii is reasonably accurate, given comparison in performances with others’ data at various time trials etc. last year (e.g. I’m pretty sure I would not have been going as fast as I was if I was doing 300w not 330w for a 10mile TT).
Would be interested in peoples’ thoughts? Especially those who’ve recently reviewed the Zumo - @PeterElite @GPLama @dcrainmaker
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Quick thoughts: Never compare yourself to another rider for power meter accuracy. A single sided 4iiii should give good numbers assuming it is correct and you’re close to 50:50 on the pedals. Warm the trainer up, perform the spindown and test again. Steady state intervals SIM/ERG are better than just riding along for comparisons. Finally, if something doesn’t do what they print on the spec sheet, return it.
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Thanks for this, hugely appreciated - will give another go and test with set erg mode intervals at varying levels. If still significantly out will return and try with another model…
Though I don’t know my power balance, there’s no reason (injury, etc) to presume it would be significantly different L/R, or enough to explain the current (consistent) wattage gap I’m seeing on the zumo.
Cheers again!
Yup, agree with everything Shane says. I’ve found calibration (at least once) super important on most Elite trainers, especially with a proper warm-up. Give that a solid 10, maybe even 15 mins. Also - this assumes your room isn’t doing anything crazy temp-wise (like being in a garage and then turning on a heater that warms the whole room slowly).
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