GRX Power Meter Options

My old Boone was:

  • R6800 Ultegra Crank, 50/34
  • R6800 Ultegra Front Der.
  • M8000 XT Long Cage Rear Der.
  • Wolftooth Tanpan Inline Cable Ratio Adjuster (converts road ratio shifter to match MTB ratio rear der.)
  • M8000 XT Cassette, 11-40

Worked a treat and was dead reliable for me.

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Perfect! Thanks. I will be trying to order one of there for my Aspero tomorrow now I know itā€™ll fit :ok_hand:t3:

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For a number of reasons Iā€™m considering having 2x GRX Di2 fitted to my road bike, but until today wasnā€™t aware of any potential chainline/offset/Q-Factor issues if I retained my existing 105 4iiii LHS-only crank power meter as I plan toā€¦

Forgive my lack of knowledge here but would appreciate some input on the followingā€¦
(i) since the 4iiii LHS crank currently clears the frameā€™s chainstay, then itā€™d continue to be perfectly fine if used with the GRX crankset, ie. in terms of frame clearance, not impacted at all by the change of the rest of the crankset from 105 to GRX?
(ii) but because GRX is wider per side, and Iā€™d be retaining the 105 4iiii LHS crank, the LHS pedal would end up inboard by 2.5mm vs. the RHS pedal?
(iii) would this difference even be noticeable, or be an issue, or just irrelevant?
(iv) if relevant, should I shim the LHS pedal to balance the q-factor per side, and are there any gotchas with doing this?

Anyone else done this?

Input much appreciated, especially from @mcneese.chad as always :+1: :smile:

  • Yup, same clearance with the PM.
  • Yes.
  • Depends on a personā€™s sensitivity, but many would never notice.
  • You could add pedal spacers up to the safe limit depending on thread engagement. 1 or 2 spacers would nearly dial in the pedal spacing from the center line of the bike.
  • Iā€™m currently running a Stages 2nd Gen on my Warbird Di2 GRX with no pedal spacer and have no issues. I may add one, but not bothered by it as offset now.
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Excellent, Chad, appreciate that :sunglasses:

NB howā€™ve you found GRX Di2?

Really nice. My first Di2 bike and still getting confused with the shift buttons :stuck_out_tongue:
Funny, since they are effectively the same as mechanical, but my head is getting in the way.

Otherwise I am quite happy with the Warbird fit and feel. Bigger tires are nice and just rolls so smooth.

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Fellow cyclists,

Iā€™m in the market for a power meter for my gravel bike, the Canyon Grail CF. Currently, Iā€™m using a hybrid of Shimano Ultegra and GRX components. All Ultegra R8000 components, other than the followings:

  • Crankset: Shimano GRX 600 46-30 2x
  • Front Derailleur: Shimano GRX

I have done some research on the pedal-based system and Iā€™m aware of these 2 products which Iā€™m considering. But both have their own limitation. The Assioma Duo is within my budget, but it only comes with SPD-SL pedal style, and the SRM X Power MTB pedal is above my budget at the time being ($1,100 USD).

Anyone have any recommendation on other type of brand or system that I can use with the components above?

Thanks,
Richard

Hi @bolton, could you tell me what crankset you have on your Canyon Grail AL 2020? The GRX RX600 or 810?

Many thanks in advance. Iā€™m also interested in getting the Stages L.
Richard

Actually, the Assiomaā€™s use the Look/Xpedo road cleat system.

However, it is possible to hack them to use SPD MTB cleats. Extensive thread on this at A Wild idea for Favero Assioma pedals [MTB SPD Hack]
Note: (NOT Favero-endorsed).

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Just FYI and if anyone ever looks for this information:

I have the new Rose Backroad (GRX 800) and swapped the left crank for my old 4iii 105 crank. Works like a charm. Enough room for the pod (measuered 4.7mm between the pod and the closest part of the chainstay). I also measured the Q-factor. It was indeed 2.5mm different. I installed two pedal washers (2mm). Happy days!

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You can also run any Hollowtech II left side crank(800 series GRX would match.)

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Power2max just announced new gravel crankset options

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@rsusanto sorry for the delay, Iā€™m in the Alps on Holidays so you knowā€¦ :laughing:
Iā€™ve got exacly this model: Grail 7 | CANYON PL
Itā€™s GRX600 but there is plenty of room for power meter with this frame. I didnā€™t buy stages L for the gravel bike, I had used it on my road bike but during winter I ride outside only on gravel/cx bike. Weā€™ve got terrible conditions during winter here in Poland and I donā€™t like road cycling during this period so I just swapped crankset and voila.

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Not the original person who asked this question, but youā€™re saying if I have a GX600 crankset I could just swap the crank arms to GX810 and add a power meter to the new left arm?

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Yes, or a dura ace/ultegra/105

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I got one today! They are awesome.

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Thank you so much, almost missed this! This new gravel low-gearing option are a big deal, I always struggled with the lack of choice on low-gear 2x setup w/ power (esp. when you have a BSA BB).

I emailed their support with questions, super quick and helpful. My only concern would be proprietary 2x chainrings, I was not able to find an entry for replacement chainrings.

They have a blog entry: New Gravel Power Meter ā€“ Power2Max North America

Ha! Got my GRX Di2 up and running now - first proper ride. I also struggled with the buttons from time to time, with my mind a total blank over which way is up and down. :laughing: As you say, itā€™s the same scheme as mechanical so the muscle memory should be automatic but itā€™s (slightly) different enough to mess with my mind now and then. With a few more rides under my belt itā€™ll all be fineā€¦

I must say I love the feel of the hoods. Iā€™d seen Gravel Cyclist JOM raving about them and he wasnā€™t lying. Iā€™ve never had any complaints about Shimano hoods, so from my perspective itā€™s not like there was a problem that needing fixing or anything, but still, the ergonomics of these GRX Di2 hoods somehow make me feel very securely ā€œconnectedā€ to the bike in a way Iā€™ve not done previously. That probably sounds a bit OTT, but I think they feel fantastic.

As mentioned Iā€™m using a 4iiii 105 non drive side crank so to even up the Q-factor - and in line with the suggestions above - my shop has fitted a couple of spacers on this side: one between BB cup and frame (I think) and another between pedal and crank. I probably wouldnā€™t have noticed any difference without these, but it avoids any ā€œwhat ifā€ questions in the event of any fit issues presenting themselves one day that might be blamed on an uneven q-factor. Belt and braces :wink:

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I guess itā€™s not just me who struggled with Di2 buttons and just having a brain fart as to what does what :rofl: I did however change the buttons as it got annoying. The two on the right now make the gearing harder (big button does the rear derailleur) and the left side makes the gearing easier (again, big button for rear derailleur). I find this incredibly intuitive, glove friendly for those colder rides (I used to accidentally hit the wrong button going up a hill, all. The. Time.), and less reaching (small girl hands) for the shifting I do the most, particularly when Iā€™m in the drops. No accidental going through wrong way gearing wise, worst case I hit the wrong derailleur but itā€™s always in the direction I want to go.

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Forgive me if I missed this somewhere, but is the 1x crank 5mm wider total? From what I can see the shift is just for the front derailleur clearance?