They are out of them on the Cyclops website (weak!!)…Do yall think it would be an issue just ordering one Amazon (same specs)? I really needed a ride tonight after a crap day at the office!
(if you are reading this Cycops rep, will my warranty be messed with)
If you match the output specs it’ll be fine. You’ll have to match the end plug that goes into the trainer. Check that’s a standard size or you may have to get medieval with your blown power supply plug and hack it onto the new one.
Had issues with my Cyclops Hammer, all pointed to the power supply. Checked output with a volt meter and it was pushing out power. Appears the socket in my cyclops is a bit dodgy, every few months it requires a wiggle. So if not already checked, bear that in mind!
One day I’ll get around to fixing it, when warranty expires… not worth the hassle of a return and being without it for a week!
I’m having some strange issues with the cord or socket. Sometimes the status LED is off, sometimes red and when i wiggle the cord or the plug it finally jumps to green. Is that something you were experiencing too?
Yes, think the location of the plug isn’t great and all to easy to knock and damage. Either that or some design issue.
Like I mentioned before, something is possibly loose inside, dodgy wire connection or something similar on my one, will get around to checking/fixing once warranty expires. It’s only needed re plugging /wriggling a few times in last 3 months so for me its not worth the hassle of a return.
If yours is still under warranty and doing it lots then I would go down the warranty route asap.
Just an update. In the end my plug was completely broken. As I’m living on a small island, sending the trainer in was no real option. I also was quite sure that the problem was with the plug or cable.
So I went to some electrician, showed him the power supply and he removed the plug and installed a new one. It’s a standard 5.5 mm x 2.1 mm connector. Did cost me less than $2. Now everything works like a charm again.
Thanks for update… might get one of those ordered in for when I get around to replacing the plug and socket… in the last 3 months it’s gone off twice, annoying as you can lose 30 seconds in a Zwift event, wriggling it again an it comes back on… far from ideal !
It’s worth a look through @dcrainmaker’s review of the unit - I found a nice photo of the PS details for a kickr that way. I don’t know if he does this for every review, but it was very useful for me.
I ended up not having to replace mine, but did find that sourcing the exact model used was more difficult and expensive than I expected - it was going to be $25-$30 for a 12v power brick. There is a huge variation in quality in these things, so sticking with what the vendor ships (whether you buy it from them or someone else) is a reasonable to get something of reasonable quality.
And if you think this is bad, Wahoo wants $80 for a replacement Kickr belt…
Haha…yup, I do it in every single trainer/bike review for a slightly more self-centered reason:
It allows me to figure out which darn power supply is which months later. I’ve been trying to remember to cut out a snippet of the manual or something with the name of the trainer on it, and then I usually tape it to the brick. But I often forget.
I keep a silver Sharpie marker close and label all bricks as soon as I open them. Had that mixup once and pledged to not let it happen again.
I even put colored electrical tape on the open end that goes into the devices, so I can quickly connect trainers and not risk grabbing the wrong one. (Yellow for Saris/CycleOps, White for Wahoo, Blue for Tacx and I don’t have one, but I’d use red for Elite).
I can’t imagine the brick hell that Ray has to deal with, yikes.
Can someone share the output power specs of the hammer 1 power brick? I’ve misplaced mine and am wondering if my kickr snap power brick will work in its place?
Here is the power supply from an H3 - similar specs (1.25A instead of 1.5), but might be easier to find as it is a more current model.
Saris may be able to tell you if the original Hammer really needs 1.5A or if 1.25 is enough.
The Kickr Power brick I have is 12 volts. Looks like the Hammer is 48 volts. I’ve successfully run my Kickr 17 off a 12 volt battery. If the Kickr Snap is the same specs, no it won’t work for something requiring 48 volts.