Confirms what I would expect. Thanks for trying something crazy and sharing the results 
Well, crap. I just received my new InsideRIde E-Flex and was in the process of setting it up when I realized that my dedicated indoor training bike has a 15mm thru-axle fork. I completely forgot that this bike had a 15mm vs. a 12mm thru-axle. Unless InsideRide has a solution, I may have a brand new E-Flex for sale. I hope they have a solution because I was really excited to try this product.
I ordered mine with support for 15mm thru axle. Contact them.
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I emailed them. Fingers crossed. Thanks!
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Let me know if they can send a replacement part, I’m curious if its possible to convert mine to 12mm in the future.
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Can’t you get a TA/nut for your fork?
I am not aware of an adapter that takes a 15x100mm fork down to 12x100mm. Is that what you are suggesting?
I think this is what he is talking about.
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Thanks! The 15mm to 12mm conversion kit for my fork is a great option, and since my other bikes have 12mm front axles, I decided to go this route.
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Appreciate if you could let me know what response you get from Inside Ride.
They offered to sell me a 15mm fork mount for $45 and said that I could return the 12mm fork mount for a refund if I wanted to. It was not clear whether the 15mm mount comes with 12mm adapters.
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My special order was delivered with the 15mm fork mount and no adapters. From the looks of it, I should be able to get the 12mm fork mount and install myself for the day I sell my bike and buy a new one with 12mm thru-axle.
I have five rides on my new E-Flex and thought I would share my initial thoughts.
- It took only a few minutes to get used to the motion and I had no trouble taking my hands off the bars to grab a towel or my phone
- The stock fore-aft tension seems too high
- Most importantly, I feel as if my power numbers are 20w lower for a perceived effort. This is based on many rides on the same Zwift routes and knowing what my times/power output typically is. (not even remotely scientific, I know)
I plan to remove my Kickr from the E-Flex and ride it rigid again for a few days to see if my power numbers are back where I think they should be.
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One quick test is to remove the o-rings from the front section fore-aft. All you do is force it to one direction, slip the loose o-ring off the center screw and washer, and return the other way and pull off the 2nd one.
That’s what I did and like it. All I have is the rear section fore-aft springs and it is far less aggressive on the centering.
I’d see of that makes the power issue feel better. Either way, I will be interested to hear your before and after comments when you retest rigid.
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I’ve got the front disconnected.
I"m having an issue getting it plum. I’ve adjusted the back end, shimmed the F&R, and now i’ve installed adjustable feet.
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No problems here, and my seated sprint power is the same inside and outside. Just using the stock setup, no adjustments.
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- Is your floor level? Sounds like it’s not, but maybe your adjustments are correcting for that now?
Make sure you have the “leaf spring” installed for the proper Kickr model. The instructions can be confusing, and I have seen several people do it incorrectly, so worth a double check.
- Of course the floor is not level. Who has a level floor???
- I’ve messed with the leaf spring all the way. Flipped it, slid it around, shimmed it, etc.
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And the totally left field question, is the rear section installed the right direction?
Meaning, the leaf spring of the E-Flex is on the left side, sitting beneath the flywheel, and supports the rear section of the trainer base. I only ask because I’ve see this done wrong, twice.
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