Damn, sorry that happened. Full bolt check for me tonight.
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Itās kind of crazy because in all the units Iāve seen and tested (about 3 total), their stock screw torque is quite high. I stripped the hex out of 2 screws during some DIY hacking and now make sure to have my best hex wrench for any work on them now.
I just sent in a support request to IR. Weāll see what will need to be done to rectify the issue.
The plate threading seems definitely stripped as the screw will not tightenā¦well tighten to a certain point, but then spins offā¦which to me after many years of working with materials, is stripped.
Thanks for your help Chad.
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Yeah I nearly stripped one of the front bolts with my Wera Hex Plus 3mm. Glad they included one extra screw!
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FYI, I have to double check the hex sizeā¦ but they use SAE fasteners, not a metric. Itās part of the reason I think they include a hex with the unit, since it is out of character for the rest of the bike industry.
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At a guess, itās the 1/8" hex, which is 3.175mm nominally. That difference from a pure metric will make a 3mm key looser than ideal. It will be more likely to strip especially with the tight torque they seem to use most of the time.
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I mentioned this issue to IR in my original review, and again in my PLUS version. I get why they use SAE (as we do in my day job of US mfg), but it is a potential issue when looking at this in the lens of regular bike industry fasteners.
Hex is 1/8.
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Oh shit! Guess I should have read the instructions more closely. Thanks 
Also I donāt get that decision AT ALL! Itās a bike product hex head, it should be metric.
Yup, I agree. But as I mention, there are many US mfgrs that stick with SAE even in areas where metric is the norm. Leads to issues and confusion like this, and even when replacing a lost or worn fastener. Itās a level of risk and not one I like.
Tooling and history such are the potential considerations from their side. I imagine they have used SAE since their beginning with the rollers, and switching a product like this over time can bring itās own issues. But it is still wrong IMO and it would be best to swap to metric.
I donāt think they mention the actual sizing in the instructions, but the included hex key is noted at some point IIRC.
IR was kind to respond that they will send me a new upright assembly. Weāll go from thereā¦
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Excellent. Probably stating the obvious now, but Iād do a full torque check on all your existing screws and when you get the new upright. And since you are installing a new upright to the existing lower tube, get some thread locker for when you mount the replacement one.
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When I had my Kickr / E-Flex setup, I had this problem initially. To resolve it, I had to spend time making sure that my Kickr was perfectly vertical. When I first set it up, the Kickr (and therefore my bike) was leaning ever so slightly to the left which got worse once I got on the bike. I used a level to make sure the Kickr + bike without me was perfectly vertical. Once I did this, the weird leaning to the left went away.
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Iāve leveled the Kickr with a spirit level, but still a bit suspicious.
Just curious, where was your reference point for spirit level placement on the Kickr ?
I used the sides of the flywheel to vertically level the Kickr. At least for me, if I did that then my bike was vertically level testing both sides of the seat tube - it was a Ti bike with round tubes, so I could use the sides of the tubes to check vertical level
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Me too, and that definitely helped
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I checked level on the sides of the flywheel and it was a slight leaning to the left, so I adjusted that.
In IR response, they suggested the following while I wait for the replacement:
"Typically weād advise not using it until the new one arrives, but in practical terms you may be able to use it if you apply threadlocker to the screws and allow it to dry. Even if one thread is compromised, it should hold. Ride for a few minutes then check. If they have started to come out, itās not going to hold. If they hold, go ahead but keep an eye on them. "
I managed to get blue threadlocker, but not loctite brand as that was sold out at all the local hardware stores, but bought Harbor Freightās version.
Secured the bolts that were coming out, or so I thought.
Went on a Pace partner ride and mid way through the bolts came out. Definitely stripped.
I still have the old front end, so I put that on so I could participate in an event on Zwift I signed up on.
In any case, the replacement should come next week, and weāll go from there.
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Did vertically leveling the kickr flywheel fix the left lean?
I had a V1 and upgraded to the V2 E-flex and really enjoying the new system. Part of that enjoyment was my old V1 had gotten kinda clunky on the fore/aft slidingā¦ this new one is smooth again
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Thatās great to hear you like the new system. 
As for as the motion, Iāve done a round or two of cleaning in the tubes. Seems there can be dirt built-up on the rollers and the tube surfaces inside.
I pop off the tubing end plugs and use rags with window cleaner and wood dowel to scrub it all smooth again. Just a bit of maintenance Iād and when the action degrades.
I believe it did. There wasnāt much adjustment needed
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Replacement front unit was received. I got a few rides in and all is good. The bolts are tight and I didnāt want to break them from the threadlocker that IR used.
So far so good.
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