I signed up for a 100 mile mountain bike this summer. It’s mostly single-track with 17,000 feet of gain. Look at past results from riders I am familiar with I am thinking I might be in the 9-10 mph range for an average speed. I’m trying to make sure I’m not going to be leaving a ton of “free watts” on the table somewhere so I’m trying to gather ideas of what I could do or change gear wise.
The general setup I am going with…
Bike: 2022 Epic Evo Comp
Suspension: 120mm Rockshox SID Select fork & 110mm RockShox Deluxe Select+ rear
Gearing: 32 x 10-52 (with a crankbased powermeter)
Wheels: Roval Control 29
A few things I am up in the air on…
What tires? I currently have the stock Ground Control (non-sworks 29x2.35). I am guessing there are better ones out there. Skill wise I am just ok, so I won’t wanna give up too much grip/handling though.
Is there an ideal number of miles to use a mtb tire to break it in? I guess ideally I would want to get as many miles as possible on a tire to get used to the handling. Then maybe have a new pair ready to go that I just have a handful of rides in?
What Sealant? I’ve been using Stan’s previously on the MTB but Orange Seal (the regular version) on the road.
Benefit of using an aero-helmet? I have a Giro Eclipse or a POC Octal X.
Was planning on just regular bib-shorts and a tight fighting jersey. I think at these speeds going from this to some sort of race/speed suit might not be worth it? (planning on wearing a USWE outlander 2)
I have not used a waxed chain on a mtb before, but was thinking of doing it here. Conditions would likely be dry/dusty. If I’m doing a hot melt wax would it be fine to not reapply? I thought Keegen stopped and applied drip wax during his White Rim FKT attempt (similar distance) but it was a long time ago that I listened to that pod so I could be miss remembering.
I’d go with Molten speedwax or Silca hotmelt and am pretty sure those will hold in dry and dusty conditions.
I think you are right on getting used to the tires before racing. I will be racing old tires in suboptimal conditions just because I am late in learning new tires, never experienced before. If I were you, I’d consider an Aspen 2.4 on the rear. Here some say the 170tpi version is quite nice and I’m curious myself. For the front I think the best approach is to use a tire you trust. Again, this is what I’ll do.
Those sealants are the same I am most familiar with on the mtb and would be fine with either.
I think planning and practicing well your nutrition is key. For me it is.
Personally I love the Ground Control tire. I use the Sworks Fast Trak for racing. Similar grip and rolls fast. If you like what you are using now for the trails you’re riding you may want to give them a try.
If you are riding where there is a lot of sharp rocks I hear it isn’t great for punctures but personally haven’t experience that as I don’t really ride in those conditions.
I have some experience with Ground controls in the t9 compound and in dry they are fine. In the wet, for me, they fall apart quickly. They are somewhat heavy, but they are a good size and grip well when it’s dry.
For speed, I’d go with the new Schwalbe Ricks or the tried and true race king any day of the week though. This all depends on how technical your course is.
I’ve used both Stan’s and orange (regular and endurance.) I pretty much only use regular orange in everything now. It seals better imo, however the trader is that it absolutely evaporates faster, so you have to be pretty vigilant about topping it off every few weeks.
Aero helmet is a why not to me. At an average of 10mph it won’t save you a ton of watts, but over the full length of the day will probably contribute to a faster time. You lose nothing and may just gain a couple minutes. If it’s uncomfortable or hotter than the alternative, that is where I’d make the decision. Especially for a century mtb race, you need to be as comfortable as possible for as long as possible. I’d wear whatever you’re most comfortable in and practice long rides in that kit.
Waxed chains always and forever for me. Start out with a fresh wax job and if you get halfway in and need to reapply, get some synergetic or equivalent to top it up. You’ll have to restrip the chain afterward but it’ll keep things quiet and operating well for your race.
As for other things, think about the whole drivetrain. Freshen up the lube in the jockey wheels, bottom bracket etc…
Also don’t wear your aero helmet and then put your sunglasses in the garage position
Edit to add: Give your tires on good long on them to break them in. I seat mine to a high pressure to stretch them and make sure the beads are seated well, then leave them for a couple days before riding. I take them out and give them a good long shake out ride before racing on them.
Hydropack or not. Bottle placement. Aero socks. Different shoes. Body position. Lots of areas to work on.
Regarding tyres: there’s a ton of choice but should be dependent on trail. If it’s technical and windy, I don’t like Race Kings. If it’s straight and hard pack/sandy, maybe a different choice.
Very good idea. If I do ever (rarely) spin out off road I don’t think a bigger ring would get me much faster but having good climbing gears over the day would definitely add up, either in freshness or actually getting up things.
30T chainring will also increase anti-squat which will make the bike pedal more efficiently, so win-win.
Ground Control is on the heavy side for an XC tyre, you might call it downcountry.
Great grip and rolls pretty well. You could try Fast Trak on the rear which would roll faster.
Tyre choice totally depends on conditions and how technical the course is.
With that much climbing, something fast rolling would be the ticket, especially if it’s dry.
Fast Trak front, Renegade rear might be good.
(I only use Specialized tyres cos they’re the best value)
To those who mentioned going to 30T, I was thinking about but was worried about not being able to use my powermeter (SRAM MTB power2max). But after reading around a bit it looks like you can get some sort of offset 30T ring from garbaruk that would allow me to keep the PM. So I may have to look into that. I’m in decent shape right now (~4.2-4.3 w/kg…hopefully this gets better in the next 5 months). But regardless, I imagine there will come a point (or many points) in the race where I will try for that extra downshift only to realize I’m already on my easiest gear. So having an easier easy gear might be good.
I was thinking of doing two bottles on the frame in addition to the hydration pack. But that is quite a bit of extra weight and fluid and maybe relying on the aid stations doing just 1 bottle and the hydration pack would be better
I am hoping to go ride 1 loop of the course maybe a month or two prior since it’s not too bad of a drive from me (~4-ish hours). I’ll just have to find a time that works out with the family to get away for an overnight trip. I think a ride through on the course could potentially save me a lot of minutes since I know better exactly what to expect
From my experience tires and sealant are just personal preference, and the more people you ask the more different answers you are going to get. That being said I prefer Schwalbe over Maxxis. Nothing wrong with Maxxis I just prefer Schwalbe for the way they corner. Racing Ralph both front and rear, I never liked the Ray up front. I have always been tempted to give the Thunder Burt a try, but scared of its lack of knobs and light weight. I have a set if Ricks in the garage getting ready to go on the bike to test before my next big event. I also run a set of Tubolight inserts.
Sealant I prefer Stan’s, but I have been using Squirt for a little while and it is working fine. Nothing wrong with Orange seal.
Plan your fueling so that you minimize your time at aid stations. Every minute at an aid station is a minute you are not moving forward, but make sure you have the nutrition and hydration you need. If you can have a drop bag have it loaded with bottles and an extra hydration blatter if not a whole pack to swap.
I run Kogel bottom bracket and pullies. They spin better from my experience. I also run their big cage, but have no idea if it saves watts or is cool or both. I think it is faster, so it is.
I won’t wear an aero helmet since I prefer the ventilation, but they are supposed to be getting better. I don’t want my head overheating when climbing that hill at 4mph.
Ran this last year at Leadville. Works like a champ. Zero issues with the Garbaruk on a P2M.
I ran a Rick F/ Burt R at a 75 Mile race on Fort Ord Last year. They were fine, but a narrow Burt/Burt is just crazy fast. No matter where I go I blow through PR’s despite carrying around some unwanted winter weight on my person. (10 lbs heavier and beat 3 climbing PRs by over a minute on one ride? yeah that doesn’t just happen.)
Gearing is the first one I’d think about. Make sure you have enough climbing gears depending on course, terrain, altitude, your ability and everything else.
Nutrition and hydration is equally important. I would learn to fuel every single ride with the amount (in g/h or l/h) as you plan to in the race. Try and see if you can stomach just liquids or you need gels, chews or stroopwafels.
Decide if you want to wear a light backpack with a hydration bladder. They are supposed to make you more aero …
Tires and inserts are another major factor, because what good is a fast rolling tire if it is prone to flats? In Japan there is an equivalent of Ledville. The race itself is relatively tame except that the paths are littered with fresh rocks that have sharp edges on one side. If you are lucky, everything is fine. If you aren’t, you better have inserts, spare inner tubes and tire levers. Plus, you need to know how technically difficult the terrain will be. If you are a good bike handler, you can do crazy things on fast rolling rubber. If you are more like me, you might want to reconsider. Schwalbe’s XC combo (Racing Ralph and Racing Ray) works really great for me. If the terrain is demanding, I would usually put a Nobby Nic in the front. Schwalbe now makes a tire that is between the Racing Ralph and the Thunder Burt, the Rick XC.
Marginal Gains:
Helmet: Yeah, I’d wear the Octal X (I love POC helmets).
Waxed chains: also yes, that’s a no brainer. I use a wax-based lube, and it is no more difficult to apply than an oil-based lube.
Ditto for tight-fitting clothing, that’s an easy yes.
