I’ve often wondered if I’m overbiked for XC.
I currently ride a 2021 Scott genius. It’s considered a trail bike. 150mm front and rear travel. I came from a superfly with only 100mm of travel front and rear so it was a huge difference.
This bike shreds chunk of any kind and eats downhills for breakfast. But I’m no enduro racer by any means.
Have I screwed the pooch by purchasing a bike , that I really enjoy , that’s not necessarily geard towards XC ?
If you’re racing XC, then yes - you’re probably over-biked.
Not racing? Who cares! Just enjoy the bike. 
The best bike is the bike you got.
In truth, sure, you’re overbiked, but unless you’re aiming for the podium, what does it matter? I’ve raced XC on my Canyon Strive and I’ve raced XC on my 27.5+ tyres aggressive hard tail, and also my Rocky Mountain Element.
Now one of those three is XC (more downcountry XC) but all three are fun to race and ride. Two are even more fun when you blast past Epics as you take French Lines and such down hill.
And there’s always n+1 never needs too much of an argument…
I race maybe 4 times a year. I’ve podiumed my last 2 on that bike. I feel like the only reason it may slow me down is the weight. ?
You are over-biked, but consider if it matters. Bike weight is definitely not the only reason.
Your bike is likely 5-7 pounds heavier than your competitors, which when considering the total package (bike, gear, rider) isn’t necessarily the deciding factor. In XC (1-2 hours) that extra weight won’t be a difference maker unless you’re loosing podium spots by a handful of seconds. Of course this is less/more dependent on your terrain.
Your trail bike is also likely less efficient than a true XC. That could be in the pedaling platform, climbing/geometry, when cornering or navigating twisting singletrack. Again, we’re talking about a few seconds in total.
You can make your bike more XC by swapping out heavier parts, stiffening up your suspension, and addressing the cockpit if needed. Also, more XC rims and tires will make a difference.
All that being said, if you’re only a casual racer and/or racing in a lower category it doesn’t matter. Your fitness and bike handling will matter more. I wouldn’t buy a dedicated bike for a few races a year if your main focus is trail riding.
Don’t you want to be on the top step of the podium? Get a hardtail, like the Specialized Epic, and take that top step.
You are sandbagging. Cat up
Agree, do 5lbs + (your weight in lbs * 100) = the percentage of how “heavier” your system is. The enduro tires are costing you way more resistance than2-5% weight penalty. It seems you’re overbiked, being underbiked is trendy but it’s probably easier to learn while being overbiked… I coach mtb juniors and I don’t understand the graduate from an xc hardtail to learn the basics first… Those are hard to learn on.
If you enjoy it, it seems like the right fit.
I ended up selling my Trail bike and buying a new epic evo. Seems to be a happy medium as far as travel goes and capable enough for chasing podiums
With fast rolling tires and a longer lower stem so you can get in the go fast position, I dont think you give up much with the big bike. I’ve got my canyon spectral set up that way. It’s 31.3#s ready to ride with seat, pedals, etc. in XL size. Also, at least for the spectral it doesn’t bob at all when pedaling even with the shock wide open.
If you knew how ,how much an xc bike really weighed (like ready to ride on the scale in your size) then it’s easy enough to do the math or some actual test runs with a power meter to see how much the weight is costing you.
And you need to add a little for the big bike because it’s funner!
Joe
I have the same bike in the Tuned version. I swapped out the following components:
The bike weighs about 28 lbs with the training wheelset with 2.6 tires and DIY tire inserts. With the changes of lighter wheels and tires I think it is just under 26 lbs. So compared to an very light XC FS bike you’re about 5 lbs heavier BUT… that is with a Fox 36 fork on it.
I think of it this way. I would much rather have a bike that is fun to ride on the chunky trails I ride for training. This is 95 percent or more of my riding for MTB. I don’t want two MTB’s and I don’t want to have a bike that is under gunned in the rest of my riding. My reality is a bike that was 5 lbs lighter will mean absolutely nothing in my results. If I finish 16th or 15th in a race makes no difference whatsoever and I’d rather have a great bike that works for everything.
I would not change bikes. I could make mine about .5 - 1 lb lighter by going to a Fox 34 instead of the 36 but I see no real benefit to doing that, especially when I’m still 10 lbs away from where I was before I separated my shoulder 2 years ago. Until I hold my weight at exactly what I want and then I’m missing a podium by less than a minute, then that 5lbs might make a difference.
You would have to spend a lot to get an XC bike much under that too!
My bone stock Spesh Epic Evo Comp with OEM ground control XC tires weigh 26.5 lbs in size medium without pedals!
So your bike is already lighter than that!
That’s a pretty nice bike and still over 27#s ready to ride. I think bike weight is kinda like w/kg….people say one thing but the data says something else.
Oh another nice thing about big bikes is you can run nice big tires.
Joe
Personally, get yourself an inexpensive hardtail, upgrade some parts to do with pedaling stiffness (IMO) and us that to counter your other bike. Weight isn’t as important as how a bike feels to pedal.
I’d get a chisel, or maybe a team Marin?
I’m building a carbon Honzo “XC bike” thats going to weigh somewhat similar to your trail bike, but its not about the weight.
Haha that’s true!
It still feels super light for me, because my other bike is a Ripmo AF, that beast weighs about 36lbs ready to rock 
