Hello There, I apologize if this has been approached before. I run latex tubes in my clinchers set up. I enjoy the ride quality and it makes for a slightly lighter set. I recently had a puncture; I generally repair my tubes, and was wondering if the process is the same for latex tubes since they’re so thin? is there a special glue, patch, process that must be observed? I plan on repairing as soon as I’m back from vacation. Thanks!
I’ve succesfully patched several latex tubes. Just make sure the area around your puncture is clean and use a regular repair kit with glue and patch.
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I use Park Tool glueless patches. Make sure the area is clean.
Just use a bit of caution with any patch. It will stretch less than the tube will once inflated.
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Just save up your old latex tubes and cut patches out of them. Use glue to attach em to your current tube. That way there won’t be a difference in stretch resistance between your talex tube and the patch you use.
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Most punctures I’ve had with latex tubes resulted in large holes - they just blew up, contrary to the small holes common in rubber tubes. Hence they ended up unrepairable.
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What this guy said. Use rubber cement to glue them together (same stuff that is provided in patch kits). Just get a bigger bottle is all you probably need but you’d probably want one that comes with a brush to apply it without having to handling it directly.
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I could never get those Park glueless patches to work. For me they have worked in the short term but have always came off afterwards and caused a second flat.
This is what I do. Use rubber cement to glue it and bob’s your uncle.
I often make 700c latex tubes into 650c latex tubes to support jr triathletes…just by cutting out a section of tube and using rubber cement to glue it back together. Save the excess for patches. It’s actually much easier to patch latex tubes vs butyl, IMO.
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This is what you want to use, rather than glue
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hi folks,
for all who pitched in about patching latex tubes, a huge thank you. The idea of sacrificing an old latex tube and use its pieces to patch existing holes is not only clever but extremely effective. Thank you.
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I was looking into moving to Latex and then saw this video
Does this essentially mean we don’t need to worry about added weight of standard butyl tubes and in fact they may be better to use for their increased durability, less likelihood of puncturing or tearing when taking tire on and off, lower cost, …?
Discussed here:
I run latex for the rolling resistance rather than the weight saving.
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Right, forgot about that @jtuk. Anything noticeable one can expect with the switch to latex in terms of rolling resistance? Worth the upgrade?
So why did Josh call this the ‘Biggest Bang For Your Buck’?
- SILCA Latex Inner Tube Upgrade (2 wheels): 4-10 Watts, $30
- Full Wheelset Ceramic Bearing Upgrade (6 cartridges): 0.8-1 watt savings, $400-1000
- Ceramic bearing derailleur pulleys: 1-3 Watts, $200-400
- Newest Aero Road Helmet: 4-8 Watts, $300
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Gotta admit I feel pretty smug as I already run the best combo from this chart (Vittoria Latex and GP5000 25mm) 
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I just started running Vittoria Latex + Michelin Power TT which is supposed to Ben an even faster combo on both Aerocoach and bicycle rolling resistance. Combo feels great a few rides in.
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Chad posted links to some decent data sources to see what kind of gains you can expect and use to see if it’s worthwhile to you.
For me, I don’t find them to be any more hassle than butyl and if you’re going to spend on a decent tyre, might as well get the most out of it with a decent inner tube. I’ve run latex on my daily bike with no problems until recently switching to tubeless. Still run latex on the TT.
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By the sound of the tyre, they are probably very fast, but more puncture prone. I do love a fast, supple tyre though - tubular Veloflex Record and Sprinters spring to mind 
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me too, and it does make a difference. Good fit on the bike plus minimally aero wheels (campy zonda) and conti 5000 w latex tubes is measurably faster.