I saw one of Nate’s Trainer rides on Strava, the speed looked accurate (like outdoor speed). However my speed is always around 15/16 KPH, whereas outdoor I would be around 28-30 KPH.
[https://www.strava.com/activities/4579715437](https://Nate’s Strava Ride)
I know there is an argument/debate that speed/distance on a turbo trainer is irrelevant, however I am curious to know what sort of set up I could use to get a more accurate speed/distance.
In the TrainerRoad app I have set the wheel circumference to 2097mm.
Currently the only device I have connect to the TrainerRoad app is my TaxNeo, I could use power and cadence from my Power 2 Max crank and I also have a Wahoo cadence sensor.
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I believe all the speed is sent from the trainer to TrainerRoad. I assume like most people you are riding in ERG mode. Are you riding in ERG mode with lower/easier gearing? You can increase your speed by riding in a bigger gear (therefore the freewheel will be spinning faster resulting in a higher speed reported in TR)
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Have you reviewed this article:
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Some trainers can be asked to send better speed data. The kicker has a button in the app (kickr’s app) to use power based speed calculation rather than wheel size and flywheel speed. When I check that box I get speed and distance in TR that is something sortof kindof real-ish. Close enough for maintenance interval tracking at least.
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try shifting to taller gears. That should push the speed calculation up.
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What training benefit do you get from recording distance/speed for indoor rides?
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There are other considerations besides just “training benefit”. I won’t bother to regurgitate them here, because they are covered by several people in the many other speed/distance threads. Suffice to to say that there is more than one reason. And there is the fact that people look at and value things differently, which is OK. This topic is no different.
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Thanks.
Yes I am using ERG mode. Silly questions, but if I go into a higher gear is that going to reduce my cadence? I am currently in the easiest gear, with Cadence around 75.
Assuming that you have a trainer capable within the power range you need, it will adjust the resistance unit and allow you to use just about any practical cadence.
There are trainers with limits that we call Wattage Floors and Wattage Ceilings. These can force a rider to use a particular gearing range (higher or lower) to reach some higher and/or lower cadences. So shifting becomes necessary, and may also influence options for cadence.
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No benefit to training.
I like to upload all my rides to Strava and see my weekly/monthly distance.
Easiest gear sounds like the exact reason your speed is so slow. And as far as cadence, what @mcneese.chad said. It might take a second for your cadence to get up to speed but should be completely normal and in the same range as with the easiest gear. You might find one gear is more realistic than another. I find I like the feel of my trainer best on the big chainring and middle of the cassette (though I don’t use erg mode anymore)
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cadence with erg is self-selected, not based on gearing.
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Thank, I will give this a try
I’m curious when people talk about “speed” or “distance” on a trainer. What does “accurate” mean when you’re on a stationary bike? Accurately reflecting a perfectly flat terrain with zero wind resistance? Not trying to be argumentative–I’m honestly wondering.
In that case, you will absolutely want to do your workouts in your 54/11. Make your Strava friends jealous!
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I will need to create a new avatar as well, of me on my bike going really fast, that will really make them jealous.
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That would be a nice option for many vs the completely disconnected aspect of ERG and random gearing.
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Using the rider info (Height, Weight, assumed or defined bike and rider position) and the power to estimate a speed/distance along some defined variable (road pitch, wind conditions, road surface, etc.). Essentially, the minimum would be a Zwift-like calculation on a fixed condition. At least with that, and constant use of that condition, people might have a way to estimate their data with a greater degree of accuracy in light of outside riding.
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Those of us who use Zwift or other apps in tandem to TR app driven workouts, can get some level of this since we are roaming in a virtual world, with the same power and whatever world conditions are present. Picking different routes will impact the results, but they still derive from a power vs conditions calculation that is “better” in terms of accuracy compared to pure RPM & Wheel Circumference we get via TR alone.
Different strokes… as ever.
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IN-accurate? How about 42kph on a Kickr with 53 big ring and something like 13 on the cassette.
Play around with gearing:
#1 was 36 chainring and #2 and #3 were definitely 53 chainring.
Pretty wide range of flywheel speeds on my Kickr, depending on gearing.
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