Hello,
I have an issue with my new SRAM RIVAL AXS rear derailleur, all gears work well except from 12th to 11th.
I’ve tried adjusting everything (H and L limit screw, microadjusts, etc) but the only solution that works is to reduce the gap between the upper pulley and the tallest teeth of the largest cog with the B-Adjust screw to let 2mm instead of 5.
Do you know if such a short gap can have an impact?
Thanks a lot!
The way I set my ‘B gap’ is to have the chain in the second largest cog (assuming it’s 1x) and look from the non-drive side at the cassette, then I space the the top jockey wheel and the largest cog, with the B-limit screw, to be around 3-4mm from top of teeth to each other.
Works well every time for me when I am constantly changing up between 9-50 and 9-52 cassettes with chainrings from 38-48. I adjust my hearing for the race course profile to be ridden.
FWIW: On my XPLR AXS with 10-44 cassette and 40 chainring the spec for that is 7-8mm. IDK how more or less clearance would affect things.
This could be a number of things. I have had a case where a single gear wouldn’t index, and the shop replaced the cassette under warranty, which fixed the problem. But, if it’s happening at the edge of the cassette, I would suspect a bent hanger.
Same. I had a similar problem and changed out literally everything back there before having the LBS check the hanger and everything shifted smoothly. It shouldn’t take a maddening level of tweaking the limit screws for the shifting to work smoothly across the whole cassette.
Thanks I will check the hanger, even if he is new ahah
I’ve straightened many a bent hanger on a brand new frame. I think they get bent most commonly 1) while in a box, built or unbuilt, or 2) if the bike falls on the drive side for reason or another. Another possibility is that the hangers are never straight to begin with.
Something else I think happens with SRAM builds, and I’ve got several is that chain length might play a part in all of this. One poster mentioned adjusting it as they swap cassettes and or chainrings, which I do as well especially on my gravel bike. Well if you’re using the same chain it’s not going to be the exact correct length for every combination.
Another thing I suspect is that the way chain length is set initially is a bit of an estimate per their instructions. Setting b-gap is very specific and uses a gauge to the mm, but their chain length method is more like cutting something with a chainsaw (I think that’s fine, you can’t cut a link at 77.5%). But when you wrap the chain and look for that link or two, it doesn’t come out exactly perfect very often (ever?), that variation has to be accounted for somewhere, so those few extra millimeters of chain (or lack thereof) have to show up somewhere when you’re setting everything else since a chain only works in whole links.
Well I just have to spend 100€ on the hanger tool lol
If the alternative is paying someone at a bike shop, that tool will pay for itself many times over. It’s one of the more useful “specialty” tools you can own if you want to maintain your own bike. Hangers are almost never perfect on new bikes or when replaced. The shifting can work OK with an imperfectly aligned hanger, but will be better when you spend the time getting it perfect. There is very little room for error with Eagle. Shops seldom spend the time to get it perfect (or even check it) as long as the bike will cycle through the gears on the stand. Most shops are about getting stuff done quickly and good enough, not perfectly (which is totally understandable).
chain is to long.
Years ago, I was using an 18" straight edge and an adjustable wrench to straighten hangers.
I’ve made an account just for this post, did you find the solution? I have the same issue
