Hi all, I have a relatively new tarmac SL7 expert (ultegra di2) and I would ideally like to convert it to a TT setup for a race I have later in the year. I already have clip-on aero bars but the area I think I may struggle with is getting the saddle far enough forward. On previous road bikes I’ve had a seat post with a kink to push the saddle forward further but I can’t use that on the tarmac due to the triangular fitting of the specialized seat post. Does anyone know of a similar “kinked” type seat post which would fit the tarmac, or have any other ideas about how I might be able to get the saddle further forward?
The only thing I can think of is getting the zero offset seat post if you don’t already. Or find a saddle that has rails further back, allowing you to slam it forward.
What’s the main reason for slamming that seat forward? If it’s for hip angle, then new seat or post might be necessary or you could go to shorter cranks. But if it’s for reducing reach, you could shorten your stem.
That’s one advantage you have over the SL8, no integrated bars (assuming it’s stock).
I’m a pretty firm believer that most people riding TT bikes should probably just be on their road bike. It only takes scrolling through a few “TT position” threads on your social media page of choice… So a “Merckx” setup as its known can be really good, especially for a single TT. My justification is mostly that people just don’t spend the kind of time required to get efficient in their TT position. By having to change a bunch of stuff on your SL7 to get it setup that way, I’m going to wager that you hold off and do it about two days before the event. An unfamiliar position with low and forward placement could easily cost you 30+ watts, totally negating any aero benefit from the position itself. Work on your “aero hoods” position and call it a day…
Thanks. My race is actually in July so I was hoping to have time to work on a setup and get comfortable with it rather than rushing it. I suppose without a wind tunnel it’s hard to know how much of a benefit I’m getting from spending ages trying to get a TT setup vs just trying to get aero on the hoods. If the difference was marginal it would certainly be way easier to just stick with the hoods/drops.
I rode an ISM saddle on the road bike for a while. To get it to work, I had to use a setback 25mm post plus position it quite far back on the rails.
That’s a normal setup if you’re trying to mimic where you’d be on a typical road saddle because you’re perched on the front edge of it.
You could get quite forward on an ISM-style saddle if that’s your goal.
That’ll subsequently move you higher and in my personal experience, it made me more quad dominant and made technical descents much more sketch. To be honest, I lost the plot along the way and veered quite far from my original fit. It solved my sore issues but defo lowered my power and handling.
Your local shop may rent a demo ISM or similar saddle.
I used a Profile Design Fast Forward seat post to get the saddle further forward on my Road Bike - TT bike conversion. Another option maybe is the RedShift post. There round posts though and I cant remember what the Tarmac has.
A good/stable aero hoods position will only cost you around 15 watts on a set of pretty dialed in clip-on aero bars… Or about a minute in a 40k TT. Keep in mind, unless you’re adding some R9160 shifters to the bar ends, you’ll need to come out of aero position every time you shift, and also to brake, so this is eating into that advantage as well…
A good position with clip ons is pretty quick. I have a domane set up that way with 32 cm bars and tucking into the aero bars still cuts drag and is more comfy to boot. It’s not as fast as my tt rig….but definitely much faster than with just the super narrow “regular handlebars”.
A stubby split nose saddle helps me get in a good spot and I didn’t need to change the stem but you could buy a kalloy uno for like 40$ if you need a shorter one (they’re cheap and super light)
You could consider racing in the Merckx category if they offer one. Merckx TT category usually doesn’t allow using aero bars, aero helmet or disk wheels so you don’t need to modify your bike.
As noted above. your best option will be to use the zero offset post from Specialized (assuming they have one?) and then slamming your saddle as far forward as possible.
I am gonna throw an “off the wall” option your way, but it may be of some help…see if you can find a Profile Tri Stryke triathlon saddle. It has a VERY long nose and it may allow you to scoot further forward than a regular saddle.
My first thought was to recommend a snub nosed saddle, as it would allow you to sit further forward on the saddle, but those are actually shorter than traditional saddles, the net effect is essentially the same.
The Profile saddle would give you extra room up front and help effectively shorten the reach. The one potential issue would be whether you could get as low on this saddle vs. a snub-nosed saddle.
FWIW, I was always able to get a very low position when I used this saddle for my triathlons…
Hi, wondering what clip on aero bars you are using, i have a tarmac sl7 and thinking ill have to buy a round tube drop bar to accommodate the clip ons.
Cheers
Clamps to the stem. Not sure if they sell it with the SL7 clamp now or if it still comes with a Venge clamp and you have to buy the SL7 bracket separately.
I find them really comfortable because the carbon armrest flexes a bit like a leaf spring. Some riders absolutely hate them though.
Yeah, I am also one who likes it. Unfortunately could not find anywhere SL7 stem clamp for it, sold out everywhere. Now planning to buy Venge stem and use tri-bar original clamp.
It’s worthwhile asking your dealer or even phoning around to the biggest flagship stores - I’ve found in the past that lots of places just won’t bother to put small parts like that in their online shopping inventory even if they have them in stock in the shop. And they may also be able to order the part for you.
I just have a standard set of clip-ons which I’ve had for over a decade. Note my tarmac doesn’t have the one piece stem/handlebar, I have an old school two piece, meaning I have a standard round handlebar which makes it much more compatible. If you have the one piece then you’ll need a different solution like the venge clip-on bars.
