Curious to know how much people spend annually on bike maintenance. I’m weighing the decision of annual upkeep cost for my older bike vs a new bike. I suspect it is variable based on mileage, riding conditions, location (labor prices) and power output (component wear). Here are my details:
My primary road bike: 2016 R5 Cervelo
Annual avg miles: 5,000
FTP: 355 - 370
Avg weekly TSS: 250
Location: Marin, CA
Average cost per year (some years more and some less): $500
Made up of random stuff (including bottom bracket, professional tune-up, replacing cables, grips, cassette, etc).
Additional avg annual costs independent of new bike:
Tires/tubes: $300 (GP5000)
Lube: $15
Seat: $100
Chains: $100
I love my R5 because it fits so well but it feels like I’m getting close to the break even point and maybe past. Labor costs at the bike shop have gone up a lot so perhaps investing in a new bike to reduce that would be smart.
Do new bikes require the same upkeep? Maybe I’m being naive to think I’ll spend less annually with a new bike Is biking really a $1,000 per year hobby regardless?!
Is your bike rim or disk? Rim would cost less with no brake bleeds. A newer bike would probably cost more if it’s integrated handlebar because it takes more time to do said brake bleed.
Newer parts are also more expensive. See 11s chains and cassettes vs 12s (or 13s )
That said if you’re trying to justify a new bike and it would get you out on the bike more, and it’s not affecting your day to day life, go for it
new or old, maintenance isn’t going to be much different. If you want a new bike and can afford it, get one. Also, you might consider doing some of that stuff yourself. Bikes are incredibly simple machines and most of those maintenance items you list can be done at home in minutes, much less hassle vs. making a couple trips to the bike shop. But there’s also nothing wrong with paying someone if it’s not something you enjoy (and it’s good to support the LBS when you can).
BTW, that’s a hell of an FTP on relatively low miles/TSS, you must have picked the right parents and/or have some history doing endurance sports.
I definitely don’t spend that much. It’s not even enough that I feel need to even try to add it up.
A saddle lasts me years. Lube, I have two bottles of Smoove, the last of which I bought years ago. A little goes a long way. Since going with wax lube, my chains last like 2 years+. I took my last chain off at 2 years / 10k miles and it wasn’t even stretched per my Park chain checker. Before that, with Rock N Roll Gold, my chains would be stretched at 6 months.
Sadly, I no longer live in the bay area and can’t ride outside 250-300 days per year thus I go through maybe one tire per year. Half my mileage is on the indoor trainer now.
My bike is rim brake which is also a reason I should probably upgrade although I have two other bikes that are disc so agree on the bleeding, pads, rotor costs being higher.
Perhaps $1,000 per year isn’t outside the norm…
From ChatGPT - Total Annual Cost Estimate: $200 - $1,000+
For a basic commuter bike with minimal maintenance, you might spend around $200 annually. For high-performance bikes or frequent riders who maintain their bikes carefully, expect to spend $500 - $1,000 or more per year.
I have four kids 6 years old and under so I have minimal time to do much maintenance other than keeping my drive train clean which does help a lot. I probably do rely on the LBS slightly more than others but I’m proud to say I don’t take it there to change my tires! no judgment though
thanks on the FTP. Weight is about 80kg so its not as impressive from a watt/kg perspective. Did a VO2max and Lactate test last year which had me pretty high so I’m sure genetics must be decent but I’ve also trained strength and endurance consistently hard for 25 years (I’m 40) with maybe never taking more than a week off. Also have focused a lot on structured training last several years so my TSS is probably mostly productive workouts rather than just riding around so may understate the value.
A new bike will save you on maintenance for about a year. After that, everything that you think wears out in a year, will need replacing again.
It’s also true that the more bike you have, the more maintenance there is to do. It somehow doesn’t work in a spreading the load kind of way. All bikes always end up needing something done.
I’m not sure if it’s $1000 per year, but it’s not cheap - depending on riding time, you’ll probably need to replace tyres and brake pads at a minimum, plus change sealant and brake fluid. Chain, cables, cleats maybe next. Bar tape and saddle lasts years for me, so not sure I’d have that in my regular maintenance list.
Agree with the poster above, you can save some money by doing things yourself, and by picking things that reduce maintenance, eg wax lube for the chain, bar tape that lasts (and isn’t white) etc.
I do all my own maintenance, and it’s about 250-300 for disc brake SRAM rival. Chain waxing saves A LOT of money in terms of cassettes and chainrings.
Brake bleeds are free (a bottle of dot fluid is so cheap and a bleed kit is like 20 bucks).
I pay 90 bucks for a set of tyres. Two sets a year.
I bulk buy disc brake pads so they’re like 5 bucks a pair and they last ages.
Bike maintenance is extremely easy. You just need to make sure you have the right tools, and while they’re expensive, they cost less than having a mechanic do the job once.
That being said, it takes time and patience to figure it out the first few times you do something. But it’s worth it in the long term. And of course, I understand not everyone has time.
I guess like you my main consumables are tyres, chains, cassettes. I am still running 11 speed and its worth noting 11-speed chains / cassettes are currently somewhat cheaper than 12 speed.
A significant on-going cost for me is brake pads for my (rim brake) carbon wheels - the front ones in particular last only a few weeks… But not sure its worth spending 8k on equivalent disc brake model just to fix that issue.
I find modern bikes easier to maintain myself. Di2 wireless is easy to index and moves out of spec less than cable and doesn’t need replacing as much, and hydraulics are easier to bleed and service than running new brake cables and sheathes. I don’t mind putting new BB bearings in either, as long as the bike frame has correct sized holes. Headset is annoying on modern bikes though.
What isn’t great is the cost of parts, if you break a modern electronic rear mech it hurts the wallet a lot.
My primary road bike: 2010 Specialized Hardrock 26" HT MTB turned into 28x700c franken-roadbike
Annual avg KM: 5,000
FTP: 260-290
Avg weekly TSS: 260
Location: Aberdeenshire,Scotland
Average cost per year: £50
Made up of random stuff (Cables, cleats, inner tubes and patches)
I have an Octalink Hollowtech 1 bottom bracket and crankset, because of the factory adjusted bearings, life is measured in years not months
I find my tyres ( Continental Ultrasport) last 2-3 years, ditto I use sintered disc brake pads which last just as long
Since switching to chain waxing (DIY wax using Ikea Glimma tealights) Chain and cassette wear are practically zero
I do all my own maintenance so labour costs are zero.
For me I tend to not spend a great deal on maintenance any longer. I do a lot of work myself, which saves money, and I’ve been waxing my chain which saves money and replacement parts.
Here is my break-down: Winter bike
I bought mudguards this year - £40
gear cable - £3
2024 distance - 1,250km
Gravel Bike
new pedals - gifted from a friend
new shoes, first SPD shoes - £25
new chain - £15
2024 distance - 400km
New (Nov 23) road bike
New tyres - wasn’t essential but wanted to go tubeless - £110
sealant - £15
disc break covers - non-essential but wanted them - £20
tubeless puncture repair kit - £5
2024 distance - 2,200km
In addition to this I have bought Silca super secret drip on wax - £40 (large bottle that I use on all bikes and will last me ages)
Last summer I won an auction box with 40 brake cables and housing sets, so I’m good for a few years on that. Just need to but the odd brake cable. New bike is hydraulic but not had to do anything about that year.
I also bought a new trail light - £75
I think I’ve bought one second hand jersey this year of £10, oh and the Le Col Everesting jersey - £60.
So all in this year that is £418 for all 3 bikes, including 2 jerseys, a new set of tubeless tyres, trail light and mudguards. I don’t think that’s too bad.
Next year I’m expecting I’ll buy some equipment for bleeding the brakes for the first time, mineral oil and maybe a gear cable or two. Hoping all that comes in under £50 for the year. I expect my wax will easily last next year and my chains. So far I’m been waxing for 18 months and no measurable wear on my chains (2 chains for both road bikes, one for the gravel bike).
It was my first time trying a waxed chain. Yes just the pure paraffin wax from tealights.
The chain I’m using was already 0.5% worn and had been used with regular oil lube before I stripped it and started waxing, I’ve seen almost no more wear in 4000km.
Its working fine I get 500km before the chain starts to get a bit noisy. Although I don’t ride much in the rain. I didn’t add any powders. I give the chain a couple of ultrasonic baths in boiling water before I rewax. I don’t even use a pot melter just an old stainless steel pan that cost under £10 on our ceramic hotplate in the kitchen.
Consumables and wear items will give you a certain floor when it comes to cost. Like you wrote, you can’t opt out of replacing chains, tires, inner cables (unless you are on hydraulic brakes and electronic shifting), etc. I’m not sure why you have budgeted a seat, seats in my experience last way longer than a year.
Here is where I spend my money:
High-quality wax-based lube is a money saver. This is the best of both worlds, it gives you most of the performance benefit of “properly” waxed chains, but application is identical to regular lube.
Chains. You don’t want to put a lot of wear on cassettes and chainrings. Changing them slightly earlier than required can help you save money in the long run. Also, make sure to measure chain wear in several places and not just one.
Have your bike checked by a LBS at least once a year. Personally, I don’t think it is worth it (for me) to invest in things like BB bearing presses. I just let professionals handle that.
Grip and bar tape as needed.
When to get a new bike?
My rule of thumb is that an old bikes becomes too old when drive train items and things like wheels start wearing out. On my old mountain bike (purchased in 2012, sold in 2022) my rear derailleur was on the way out, one of the trigger shifters, all three chainrings were worn, the chain, the wheels needed replacing and the front and rear suspension a full service. Plus, this was still on 26" wheels. That was way past replacement.
Road bikes are simpler animals than full-sus mountain bikes, so a bike from 2016 is still good if you have taken good care of it. So your bikes likely still has a lot of life left in it.
The biggest consideration in favor of a new bike would be wider tires. Assuming you still have a rim brake bike, you are likely limited to 25–28 mm wide tires. New road bikes often have clearance for 35 mm, which gives you a whole new ride experience.
Is biking really a $1,000 per year hobby regardless?!
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