I am racing a 70.3 triathlon in a few weeks. Earlier this year I switched to tubeless tyres on my TT bike and now I can’t decide on what I should carry as spares/tools in my saddlebag.
Here’s what I’m thinking:
Multitool
1x Co2
Dynaplug
Tyre levels?
Tube with value extenders?
I’m just not sure if I should carry all of that. When I fitted the gp5000tl’s it was an epic battle that took hours, I don’t want to be doing that at the side of the road come race day.
I was thinking of completing stripping this back and just carrying
1x co2
Dynaplug.
I’ll be interested to hear what others here carry.
Multi tool:
Make sure you have the tools you need in there and know how to use them.
I once had to change a front tyre and then figured out, that I had pulled the front axle super tight with a proper tool. Now I had no chance of undoing it with the super short lever that a multi tool has…
Also, chain tool need to fit chain.
I always bring 2 CO2 but that’s just me being careful
CO2 Adapter
chain link
I gotta say I am a tube guy and would prefer to bring a spare tube, to not be stranded if the hole doesn’t seal up (even with the plug). But that’s really down to what you are more comfortable with.
I’d buy a tube like Aerothan or Tubolito, that are super light and tiny.
I’d go with plugs, co2 and a mini pump. If you’re not getting the tyre off, there’s no real point carrying a tube. Pump might be needed if you have to keep topping up air. There are 2 in 1 pumps that might work for this?
I’d say take whatever tools and bits are required to fix what is most likely to go wrong: puncture kit, chain tool and quick links, hex and torx keys. I’d bet that if you dont have a small mini pump as a back up to the CO2, Murphys Law is more likely to kick in, so a mini pump is handy insurance.
Sometimes changing a tyre is difficult down to technique and not tools. Tools can ruin rims. I was fixing a superlight Schwalbe tube last night, and took pleasure in getting the tyre on without levers. Tyre was a tight fitting Veloflex clincher and the rims are wide + tubeless ready Easton EA90’s. Its a matter of making sure the tyres are seated in the middle of the rim where the circumference is smaller. You need to practice this at home. I noted that the glue in my puncture repair kit was getting thicker and will probably dry out soon.
One way of working out whats likely to need to be fixed is to think about what you have had to touch in the recent past on the bike. I was in a sportive at the weekend and there was someone who clearly hadnt adjusted his gears in a while and was struggling with shifts on a particularly steep climb, who then fell off. Guys were walking this climb. The consequence of bad shifting on a tough climb is potentially a snapped chain.
I’ve never done longer than a 25 mile (40km) TT (I run a tubeless disc and clincher front). For that I leave all the stuff in the car but for longer I am also no 13 for tonight’s 10 miler (16km)
Ive got the same GP5000TL tire on my TT bike with the same pain in the butt installation. I carry a multi tool, 2 CO2, and dynaplug. I’m OK with a DNF should I break my chain for the first time ever or get a puncture that can’t be sealed. And as a consequence all my repair gear is neatly packed in between my rear bottle cages out of the wind. At some point you need to figure out where you are comfortable trading off speed for not being picked up by the sag wagon.
I am also no 13 for tonight’s 10 miler (16km) 