Are these safe for down country and is there a weight limit?
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My wheelset has a 100kg per wheel rating on them. I intend to use them when I go down country riding, but they are classified as XC wheels.
Also incase anyone wonders what a the Omega rim looks like it has a defined lip on it
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wondering how accurate this is
" * Max Jump Height: Rider Weight < 90Kg: 45cm ; Rider Weight > 90Kg: 35cm" those carbon spokes wouldnât survive long, but at the same time they are supposed to be stronger than the CX
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Out of curiosity where are you seeing this information? Iâm only able to find center tensile strength.
Itâs on their carbon spoke page under specs tab
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I canât tell much of difference, just left it in low. I did change the front fork to a 110, so it may be close to what the high setting would be.
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Thank you for sharing!
I would assume that the Sapim CX Ray falls under the same stress/loads as that then, and how I read that it is talking about (1) spoke vs a wheelset of spokes (maybe 2-3 are always in contact and taking the load?).
That is great information though!
Looking at the Sapim spec sheets they call for a tensile strength of 1600 N/mm2
I never know how much I can believe in those âjumpâ stuff, in the past I used to have a Yeti SB66 and the user manual said the bike wasnât made/supposed to do jumps, last I saw that was a 160mm travel bike used in which Jared Graves won an Enduro World Series 
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Following up on this:
My Epic 8 is about to be finished (until FA arrives that is). Looking forward to never having to wrap a frame in ride wrap again. 0/10 would rather hike up a mountain pass with a loaded bike. White frame, black cats, hair and lint everywhere, toddler running around and wanting to help daddy clean the bike
In need of an extended ride after this project is wrapped up
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Anyone ever used a D232 ONE Carbon dropper? Any reviews?
Theyâre no longer the lightest dropper, and itâs only 60mm, but they seem pretty simple in design.
Found a secondhand one cheap.
Youâve convinced me, I am 100% finding and paying a shop to do the frame I have coming in 
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I assume it isnât as bad if the bike isnât built up and worked on already. And also, if you have a non-white S-works. And if you donât have kids. And no cats. And a lot of patience 
Ride wrap didnât have the Epic 8 when I bought my bike and I built it up without any frame protection. Only ordered the whole frame protection set when I saw Jonathans S-works with ride wrap.
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I did it once and Iâll gladly pay for someone else to do it. A shop charged me out the ass for my last wrap and iâll still take it over doing it myself.
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Is it just the bike specific tailored protection installs that are the pain? or are the covered or essential protection wraps that cover much smaller percentage of the bike still a faff to get on?
Highly doubt theyâll ever do a tailored protection option for my bike (not popular enough) so the lesser coverage ones would be my only option. RideWrap does have an install location close by me in Golden though so I could have them do it directly if thatâs still worth it.
Iâve never bothered with it before, but you all got me thinking and I looked closely at my old bike, a 2019 Oiz, and man is that frame covered in paint scratches.
i can only speak for me but the aligning wasnât my biggest issue. Thatâs pretty straight forward imho. I have a white frame and you can see every bubble, every tiny piece of lint or dust and thatâs what was driving me crazy. Sometimes the bubbles wonât go away and I had to redo some pieces a couple of times, essentially taking 20-30min for some pieces to finally be acceptably accurate.
I think if you have an afternoon for yourself, some good music for vibes and a beer or cbd itâll be fine.
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ha - so never gonna happen for me. I have a 2 and 5 year old, 2 dogs, and a wife who tolerates my riding but isnât a fan of me spending the time Iâm not riding doing more bike projects.
Now Iâm just debating if itâs still worth having RideWrap due one of the reduced coverage options or if I should just rawdog it like my previous bike and live with the consequences.
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Iâd say do the chainstays (outside) and the top tube and go ride. Itâs probably not worth the hassle and I wouldnât do it a second time tbhâŚ
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The front suspension maintenance is much easier with the fork removed from the bike. What kind of arrangements do you use to hold the bearings and handlebar while doing the maintenance? I know that at least Park Tool has a dummy fork/steerer tube for this, but I wonder if there are any other options.
I have a cut-off piece from a fork that I cut to length. I clamp the stem on this piece of tube and put it in the headtube to prevent the handlebars from dangling around.
For the bearings, I always remove and clean/check the bearings and regrease before reinstalling, so they get removed when the fork goes out.
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That is a good idea. I am sure I have some pieces of steerer tube left somewhere, will try this next.